2005 Easiest Aftermarket Speaker upgrade?
Forum rules
Only post questions about AUDIO equipment in this topic please. In car entertainment, ICE, Android Auto, stereo and sat-nav are all welcome here
Only post questions about AUDIO equipment in this topic please. In car entertainment, ICE, Android Auto, stereo and sat-nav are all welcome here
https://citroenc3owners.com/resources/deh-x5500bt/1420
this one. If I use direct sub connections do I lose both rear speakers?
this one. If I use direct sub connections do I lose both rear speakers?
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- Posts: 2818
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- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
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samuelodog wrote:https://citroenc3owners.com/resources/deh-x5500bt/1420
this one. If I use direct sub connections do I lose both rear speakers?
If you use the RCA/line-level/pre-out to drive the sub you can still have 4 speakers connected (usually 2 front and 2 rear). Your 2 fronts can include tweeters.The DEH-X5500BT's built-in amplifiers produce pristine sound delivered at 4 x 50W of pure, proven MOSFET power. If that isn't enough, you can always use the 2 RCA pre-outs to hook up another stereo component, like an extra amplifier for the front and rear speakers or a subwoofer, for example.
There are only 4 amplifiers (4x50w) in that stereo so it can drive only drive 4 speakers.
The 'direct sub' or 'RCA' supply is not amplified and will require an 'Active Sub' - one that has an integrated amp, or an additional amp to drive only the the sub.
Which is how I understand the spec.
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- Posts: 2818
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 220 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
You can change the configuration in the menu to select which installation you have.C3CAR wrote:Which is how I understand the spec.
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- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2004 (04)
- Engine Size: 1.1
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: United Kingdom
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Your chosen radio has 8 outputs.
4 high level outputs, designed to drive speakers directly, so L & R front and L & R rear.
And
4 low level outputs, these can't drive anything that doesn't have an additional amplifier.
These outputs are L & R front and also L & R rear or L & R sub - you get to program this using the radio's setup menu. When the sub feature is selected, you can also set a crossover point, that is the frequency of sound which goes to the main speakers and which goes to the sub. This can be changed to suit the sub you get.
When you fit your sub, don't be put off by some of the enormous power cables that people on Youtube fit. For a 100W RMS sub the current needed will be about 8 amps, so if you allow a 15 amp cable you will be fine. 15 amp cable is only about 2mm diameter, if you go for 'thin wall' cable specifically for automotive use, it is designed to be threaded. Its good practice to run cables in a protective sleeve, to make life easy, the sleeve doesn't have to be in one piece, you can thread the cables in section. The sleeve is a physical protection, the cable itself is electrically insulated.
Many of the videos on Youtube show massive amps and subs. If you fit a 50 watt RMS (the true power - the only specification you can rely on) sub, it will have a power greater than the 4 outputs of the factory fit radio combined (4 x 10 watts). Even the radio you're getting is only 4 x 50 watts which will be around 4 x 17 watts RMS.The C3, lovely as it is, isn't that big. To slightly modify a famous saying "you don't want to blow the bl**dy doors off!" Unless you want to listen at levels that make your ears bleed I thing the maximum sub power you'll need is 100 watts. I have a sub in my Volvo V70, its 70 watts RMS, if you turn things up too much with music that has a decent bass it starts to make some of the car's panels rattle!
4 high level outputs, designed to drive speakers directly, so L & R front and L & R rear.
And
4 low level outputs, these can't drive anything that doesn't have an additional amplifier.
These outputs are L & R front and also L & R rear or L & R sub - you get to program this using the radio's setup menu. When the sub feature is selected, you can also set a crossover point, that is the frequency of sound which goes to the main speakers and which goes to the sub. This can be changed to suit the sub you get.
When you fit your sub, don't be put off by some of the enormous power cables that people on Youtube fit. For a 100W RMS sub the current needed will be about 8 amps, so if you allow a 15 amp cable you will be fine. 15 amp cable is only about 2mm diameter, if you go for 'thin wall' cable specifically for automotive use, it is designed to be threaded. Its good practice to run cables in a protective sleeve, to make life easy, the sleeve doesn't have to be in one piece, you can thread the cables in section. The sleeve is a physical protection, the cable itself is electrically insulated.
Many of the videos on Youtube show massive amps and subs. If you fit a 50 watt RMS (the true power - the only specification you can rely on) sub, it will have a power greater than the 4 outputs of the factory fit radio combined (4 x 10 watts). Even the radio you're getting is only 4 x 50 watts which will be around 4 x 17 watts RMS.The C3, lovely as it is, isn't that big. To slightly modify a famous saying "you don't want to blow the bl**dy doors off!" Unless you want to listen at levels that make your ears bleed I thing the maximum sub power you'll need is 100 watts. I have a sub in my Volvo V70, its 70 watts RMS, if you turn things up too much with music that has a decent bass it starts to make some of the car's panels rattle!
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all the evidence and pretend you never tried 

-
- Posts: 2818
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 220 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
The same level of sound would probably shake the C3 apart if it makes the volvo panel rattleMissing Lincs wrote:I have a sub in my Volvo V70, its 70 watts RMS, if you turn things up too much with music that has a decent bass it starts to make some of the car's panels rattle!

I also saw an aerial adaptor that was mentioned.
I think you will need this 'PC5-28 Aerial Adaptor on eBay' to connect an early C3 aerial to a modern head unit rather than the one from previous posts.samuelodog wrote:OK, so I got this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170979371306
and this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151144122753
and this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250519020792?_t
so that I can install this:
https://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product ... -27700.htm
This all correct?!
THANKS!!
What you need to connect an old C3 to a new Head Unit (if its not supplied with the stereo) - above
Rather than the other way round (new car to old head unit) - below
Many thanks for this. Please can you point to what I should use to protect the cable? Also, can't see any 70 watt rms underwear subs anywhere?
Aww shucks. Bought the wrong aerial adapter. And the subs I showed on eBay. Will these tear my car apart? The in phase one is 100 Rms. But can't these be 'turned down'?
-
- Posts: 2818
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 220 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
Yes, if you don't turn the volume up to the max, you won't be running the sub at its maximum power. The bit about shaking the C3 is a bit of humour because the C3 is not know for its strong construction compared with a volvo.
-
- Posts: 2818
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 220 times
- Been thanked: 110 times
You may be ok with the aerial connector. I am not going to take mine out to double check what they look like but it's better to have an unused connector left over than not have one you need.
IN PHASE USW10 appears to have dials for frequency and gain, would these keep the level down a bit- I don't want too much bass in my little car! And anyone know what cables I need? Is it just the power cable and rca as discussed? And is the remote necessary? The ones I'm looking at are without remote or cable.
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