WARNING DANGER!!!! This tutorial involves removing the steering column from the steering rack. If the steering system is not correctly reassembled, loss of control of the vehicle may result.
This tutorial is for information purposes only. Perform maintenance at your own risk!!!!
I had reason to change the c3's dash board. There was a magnet base for a mobile phone stuck to it (ugly), the airbag was scratched up and I had to investigate why the air distribution wasn't working properly. I had another dash in the wrecker C3 that I own and that looked pretty good.
On with the show..
First remove the storage compartment by the drivers knee.
There is an anchor shaped retainer in the center of the molding. You will need to squeeze the lugs together to get the molding out.
Next remove the steering wheel and com2000. HERE is a link to an existing post.
Remove the instrument cluster. Pull the bezel straight outwards. Undo the 3 torques screws retaining the instrument cluster and disconnect the connector on the back of the cluster.
Undo the nut on the steering retaining pin from the bottom of the steering column universal joint. There is a safety retaining tab holding the pin in place. Bend it up enough to remove the pin. Push the steering shaft up to clear the the steering rack post.
Disconnect and remove the headlight leveling control and wing mirror switch.
Release the loom going to the COM2000 from the plastic retainer on the end of the steering column. Disconnect and remove the green and blue/black connectors from the steering column.
Pull all the wiring behind the dash board and just let it dangle free.
Remove the 4 bolts retaining the steering column to the dash suport frame. Slide the steering column assembly toward the back of the car a few millimeters and the column will release from the retaining lugs. Be careful,it's heavy and awkward! Remove the steering column.
Remove the center console. Link HERE
Go over to the passenger side and remove the glove box. LINK to post.
When the 3 connectors under the glove box are exposed (1 black,1 white and 1 blue) disconnect (split) them.
If your car is from 2005 and on, you may not need to perform the next step. If there are a lot of wires in that black connector, skip removing the connector from the BSI. If there are only 4 wires in the black connector, you will need to remove the connector from the BSI.
Swing the bsi down and remove the black connector shown in the picture.
On the passenger side of the air distribution box, above the heater matrix feeder pipes, is a connector.
Disconnect (split) the two halves and remove the connector from the upper air duct connection. This loom is the dash loom and will stay with the dash when it's removed. It connects the dash wiring to the air distribution box wiring.
Remove the radio and anything else in the double DIN space.
Unclip the cable restraint for the cloth covered loom attached to the distribution box. Undo the retaining screw attaching the bracket to the air box.
Unclip and disconnect the radio antenna power lead.
Free the cloth covered loom from the restraint clips molded into the distribution box. At this point all the cloth covered wiring is part of the dash loom and will come out with the dash when it's removed. So make sure this loom is free and not caught on anything. Undo the retaining screw attaching the bracket to the air box.
End of part 1.
Removing the dash board (2003-2010)
Forum rules
Tips for any Citroen C3
Tips from forum members are encouraged and very welcome.
Questions are not to be posted in this section
No Engine tips
Think: Manual Gearbox, Bodywork, Lighting, Interior, Wheels, Steering, Brakes and Suspension
Tips for any Citroen C3
Tips from forum members are encouraged and very welcome.
Questions are not to be posted in this section
No Engine tips
Think: Manual Gearbox, Bodywork, Lighting, Interior, Wheels, Steering, Brakes and Suspension
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- Posts: 1253
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Automatic PRND
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
- Has thanked: 63 times
- Been thanked: 374 times
-
- Posts: 1253
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Automatic PRND
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
- Has thanked: 63 times
- Been thanked: 374 times
Part 2 of dash removal.
If you have auto (digital) air conditioning, you will need to poke out the driver side switch assembly adjacent to the radio, and disconnect the aircon sniffer (cabin air temp sensor) from the loom.
Remove the climate control panel. Remove the two screws and lever the retaining lugs to unclip the assembly.
Don't bother unclipping the electrical connectors or push/pull cables where relevant. Be careful when re-installing the dash that you don't get the control panel wedged in behind the dash and the air distribution box.
Undo the earth bolt and remove the single earth wire from the base of the console area on the driver side.
Undo the earth bolt and remove the single earth wire from the base of the console area on the passenger side.
Undo the bolt retaining the dash bracket to the floor bracket.
Remove the two screws holding the lower part of the dash to the lower part of the air box.
Pop out the two end covers on either side of the dash.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the dash support bracket to the chassis bracket on the driver side.
Remove the bolt behind the instrument cluster attaching the dash support bracket to the fire wall.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the dash support bracket to the chassis bracket on the passenger side.
There is no need to remove the center display, the two switches in the center of the dash or the switch blocks on either side of the radio. I removed them because I was swapping over the dashes.
The dash can now be removed. It's possible for one person to lift out the dash from this position but it's heavy an awkward!
Along the front edge of the dash there should be a rubber seal. The seal slides into place on the front of the dash and is attached to the firewall at the base of the wind screen with double sided tape. It may come off with the dash or stick to the firewall. It has to be attached to the dash for re-installation! In this photo the seal is missing, it's stuck to the base of the windscreen!
Ta da!!! Here is what it looks like behind the dash. Ooh it's all naked.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Here are the alignment points for the dash locators. Be careful of the foam gaskets on the airbox outlet.
I recommend that 2 people install the dash, one on either side. It will make precision alignment easier. It would be very difficult for one person to align all the tabs at the same time.
Well that's it. I hope you don't need to remove the dash in your car but all-in-all it wasn't that hard. The hardest bit was maneuvering the dash back in and aligning all the pegs and locators.
REMEMBER, double an triple check the pin that clamps the steering column to the steering rack shaft!
If you have auto (digital) air conditioning, you will need to poke out the driver side switch assembly adjacent to the radio, and disconnect the aircon sniffer (cabin air temp sensor) from the loom.
Remove the climate control panel. Remove the two screws and lever the retaining lugs to unclip the assembly.
Don't bother unclipping the electrical connectors or push/pull cables where relevant. Be careful when re-installing the dash that you don't get the control panel wedged in behind the dash and the air distribution box.
Undo the earth bolt and remove the single earth wire from the base of the console area on the driver side.
Undo the earth bolt and remove the single earth wire from the base of the console area on the passenger side.
Undo the bolt retaining the dash bracket to the floor bracket.
Remove the two screws holding the lower part of the dash to the lower part of the air box.
Pop out the two end covers on either side of the dash.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the dash support bracket to the chassis bracket on the driver side.
Remove the bolt behind the instrument cluster attaching the dash support bracket to the fire wall.
Remove the 2 bolts holding the dash support bracket to the chassis bracket on the passenger side.
There is no need to remove the center display, the two switches in the center of the dash or the switch blocks on either side of the radio. I removed them because I was swapping over the dashes.
The dash can now be removed. It's possible for one person to lift out the dash from this position but it's heavy an awkward!
Along the front edge of the dash there should be a rubber seal. The seal slides into place on the front of the dash and is attached to the firewall at the base of the wind screen with double sided tape. It may come off with the dash or stick to the firewall. It has to be attached to the dash for re-installation! In this photo the seal is missing, it's stuck to the base of the windscreen!
Ta da!!! Here is what it looks like behind the dash. Ooh it's all naked.
Installation is the reverse of removal. Here are the alignment points for the dash locators. Be careful of the foam gaskets on the airbox outlet.
I recommend that 2 people install the dash, one on either side. It will make precision alignment easier. It would be very difficult for one person to align all the tabs at the same time.
Well that's it. I hope you don't need to remove the dash in your car but all-in-all it wasn't that hard. The hardest bit was maneuvering the dash back in and aligning all the pegs and locators.
REMEMBER, double an triple check the pin that clamps the steering column to the steering rack shaft!
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