Rear Door Lock removal (for buzzing locks)

To get the locking mechanism out firstly remove the door panel:
citroen-c3-tips/rear-door-interior-pane ... -t160.html

Then remove the exterior handle:
citroen-c3-tips/c3-door-handle-removal-t161.html

The small cover left on the exterior of the car can be popped off to reveal two steel rivets to be drilled out and one steel rivet at the end now revealed with the handle removed.

The interior handle slides off its mounting.

Remove the 3 torx screws (T30) to free the lock.

Remove 2 torx screws to allow removal of the window guide to ease access

Disconnect the electrical connector.

The black carrier that is now free due to drilling out the 3 steel rivets.
Remove the black carrier, door lock assembly and the interior handle as a complete unit which can be separated when off the car.

Pick up a complete replacement unit (ebay) from the list and fit it in the reverse order listed above.


The complete door solenoid locking assembly, with dead locking (an option) and child locking (option on rear).

Is it possible to open the door lock mehanisam and to be repaired for bazzing sound ?

Is it possible to open the door lock mehanisam and to be repaired for bazzing sound ?

Its due to worn parts inside the lock mechanism. I found it easier to just change the unit for a second hand one.

I don't know which parts are worn, but if you do identify the parts, where do you get them from?

I think that if i can open the mehanisam and lubricate the parts it will work.I think this because there is a plastic screw
from the side of the door and when i'm forcing whit a screwdriver clockwise the mechanisam works fine(several times).I agree that it's much more
easear to change whit new one , but the price where i live is 150 euros , and i can't find in another place.

but the price where i live is 150 euros , and i can't find in another place.

Have a look here for the C3 door locks on eBay (click here)] and get them to ship to your country. Or find a more local vehicle recycler. 150 Euro is too much money.

I have opened my faulty unit up, its only a case of bending metal tags. I have stripped it down, cleaned and lubricated the parts, swapped the motors, reassembled and tested it. Still buzzing. I came to the conclusion to pay the £25 (30 Euro) and get another one. Job done and its been working for about 8 months now.

There are several different versions of the locking mechanism, some have child locks (rear) and some don't, some are dead locking, central locking. You may find you loose a function, but the car won't buzz any more.

I don't know that yours has failed in the same way as mine, so it will be good to hear that you fixed yours with a strip down and lubricate. Let us know how you get on!

Yes i fix it the mechanisam.In the inside of the machanisam there is plastic rack gear where the gear
of the electric motor is spining on the top of it.It was broken on the one of the side of the rack.When the electric motor is
spining is widing the rack and it is making the buzz sound.I find a solution.
I make one little hole with hot needle and put it a cooper wire around the broken side.Than with two component glue, i clue it
and assemble the mechanism.It is working fine one month.I belive that the clue side now is stronger than the other.
I hope this is helpfull.Thanks for the helping tips for deassembling the mechanism.

I havent taken the panel off yet to take a closer look but ,,,,can you simply un-hook the ends of the wire cables (with the barrels on) coming from the lock, without removing the handle carrier and interior handle?

Hi kevd

I havent taken the panel off yet to take a closer look but ,,,,can you simply un-hook the ends of the wire cables (with the barrels on) coming from the lock, without removing the handle carrier and interior handle?

The long cable is the internal handle and that is very easy to remove and refit while the lock and handle carrier is in situ.

The short cable is the external handle and that is very tricky to unhook, but not impossible without removing the black carrier.

But when you come to refit, its is virtually impossible to get access to hook them back together without removing the carrier. Drilling out the rivets and popping some new ones in is much easier and makes it possible to re-marry the short cable and the handle mechanism off the car where you can see what you are doing.

My advice is to drill out the rivets, remove all of the parts and disassemble and reassemble off the car, refit it with the short cable attached.

Cheers for that... a riveting we will go

We really struggled to get the electric central locking cable/ plug off the driver rear door lock ( 53 1.4hdi Desire), and left it in place untill everything else was removed.
Once we got acess to the lock out of the door , we could see that the plug is held in place by a plastic hook/clip going over a "keeper" on the socket, requirng a small flat screwdriver to raise the clip over the keeper.

hope this helps someone