how to replace the Starter Motor and Solenoid
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Addixxtion - Posts: 9
- Joined: Fri Nov 11, 2016 10:40 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 88000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
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My Name:
Arfur Dent - Posts: 3636
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 3:47 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (52)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 100000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 402 times
- Been thanked: 148 times
Great work. Easy mistake to make, I guess.Addixxtion wrote: ↑Wed May 16, 2018 2:00 pm You legend! Thanks! Looks like I've been trying to remove the wrong frigging bolt! There is a hex head bolt below it so I guess that's the one I need to remove! I'll give it a try!
..
Arthur Dent! You are indeed a legend two minutes later motor out!!! If you were here I'd kiss you!![]()
Hopefully the pictures and your experience today will help others avoid the pitfall of the wrong starter motor bolt that is now called 'The Addixxtion bolt'



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My Name:
C3CAR - Posts: 2857
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 252 times
- Been thanked: 116 times
The instructions for removing and replacing follow the guide by Adam very closely, with one exception - the EGR and Turbo electro valve reservoir blocks access on the 16v 1.4 HDi.
The job,
If you have a bad back like me, things can take time. Some bits of the work were done blind with a lot of feel.
I didn't need to jack up the car in any way, also.
Disconnect the battery.
Removed;
Engine top cover
Inlet piping to and from the air box,
Airbox,
Battery tray,
Fuel filter,
vacuum line from the vacuum pump to the brake servo.
It's not too much of a bad job; I just took my time and actually enjoyed most of it.
Adam.
The starter (and its solenoid and bracket) is held on by three long bolts with 6mm socket caps, so using a 6mm Allen key, a ball-ended, helps to speed up the removal after the initial loosening from the non-ball end. Please don't use the ball-end to do the initial release but use them for quicker long bolt removal.
Two of the three long starter mounting bolts are on one side of the starter, and the third is on the other. There are no other 6mm hex socket cap screws on the engine/gearbox. This is a design feature to ensure you only remove the correct starter motor mounting bolts.
The electrical connections to the starter motor are a 13mm nut for the 2 big cables on the same thread and an M8 nut for the smaller thread for the solenoid.
Procedure
Remove the battery covers and engine top cover.
Disconnect and remove the battery.
Disconnect the ECU plugs, and lift out the ECU on its carrier.
Disconnect the 3 plugs from the EPAS ECU.
Unlip the electrical cable mounting clips from the battery box.
Please remove the battery box along with the EPAS ECU still attached (2 bolts in the bottom of the battery box and slide it forward)
My starter fuse was blown, so I removed the BSM cover and the big nut and unclipped the BSM to reveal the maxi fuses - one of which had blown.
Remove the right-hand air pipe. It is clipped on below and has a vacuum pipe attached, unclip it.
Disconnect the MAF plug.
Remove the turbo to the air filter pipe (worm drive clip); the MAF attached the air filter lid (3 screws) and the air filter.
Remove the air filter grey H section in the air filter box, and remove the 2 sections of the air filter box.
Remove the fuel filter pipe and electrical connections, and cap off the fuel pipes (gloves work)
Some pipes and cables run from left to right behind the engine under the air filter box area; I cable tie these loosely to the bulkhead brake pipe.
The 16v has a vacuum reservoir box that blocks access to the starter motor. A couple of vacuum pipes are attached to the vacuum reservoir and mounted to the engine. There is no need to remove the pipes, but they are prone to falling off after splitting. This may be a good time to check them. The reservoir is mounted on two fixed threads by two corresponding 10mm nuts. Just remove the nuts and push the reservoir out of the way.
You can now access, by feeling, the M10 and M8 electrical connections to the starter motor; remove these.
Find and remove the 3 6mm socket cap screws, 2 on one side and the other from the other side.
The starter motor should now be free of its mounts, and it is difficult to maneuver up and out of the engine bay. It can be done.
The starter motor attached bracket doesn't help, and this bracket needs to be transferred to the new starter motor.
Some Pictures:
The Air Filter box and its H section:
The starter motor has 8mm and 13mm electrical connections that must be removed. Clean any corrosion or contamination from the cable ends.
Engine bay prepped for starter motor replacement
It took over 4 hours to remove the old one and fit the new one.

- (Affiliate links to the companies I use to maintain my Citroen C3)
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