A photo and quick list of major parts. I want to pull the end cap of first, so we start by releasing the braid that runs from the solenoid to the brush holder.
Next, the two long bolts holding the body of the starter together.
We can now remove the brush holder/end cap. Be careful as the two long bolts hold the entire starter together. Hold the motor and gearbox onto the cast housing or it will all fall apart!
If you ever need to replace the brushes because they are worn out or whatever, the brushes come as a brush holder/cap and brush unit. The "pig tails" of the brushes are spot welded to the metal end cap! So you cant just simply replace the carbon brushes.
The whole reason that I removed the starter was because it had balked on start up a few times. The starter always ran the second time, but there was that hesitation. The commutator segments (the copper "pie shaped" bits) and the faces of the carbon brushes look a bit glazed up, but the brush length is fine.
I brushed the face of the commutator and the brushes with a plastic scourer to take the glaze off
I also took the solenoid off and greased the "slug" inside to ensure that it slid backwards and forwards easily.
It's possible that the electrical contacts inside the solenoid housing can get burnt out. These contacts switch the heavy current of the electric motor. They are sealed inside the solenoid housing and are not serviceable. I do not know if the solenoid can be purchased separately.
Re-assembly of the starter is just the reverse. Not too complicated.
If you are interested, the starter is a little more spritely now and It has not hesitated again.
