1.4HDi Engine Removal and Head Seperation

As usual thank you very much Arfur Dent for your advice.

I assume you locked off the crank and camshaft before disassembling?
or at least aligned the timing marks?

Yes, I did. Obviously when I took the camshaft that got messed up but i know if i align the marks back again it should go back into the same position.

had you considered renewing the belt and tensioner and water pump

Ah, i've been thinking about it, I’m glad you have brought it up. i know i've spent quite a lot of money already see below, but I’ve been considering what to do especially with the water pump, it was not leaking but would you recommend changing it? I’ll price it up. I’ll probably change the tensioner too.

Timing Belt
Head Bolt
Head Gasket
Drive Belt
Drop Link X2
All filters
All oils
Coolants

All four reconditioned injectors, on test it showed drop in performance (most costly) ill recommend https://stores.ebay.co.uk/Specialist-Diesel-Injections, very helpful people and professional service.

Turbine & compressor balanced and all new seals - - i took your (Arfur Dent) advice and I've sent the turbine & compressor to a turbo balancing service.

but I’ve been considering what to do especially with the water pump, it was not leaking but would you recommend changing it?

Yes, I say - change the water pump and the tensioner and the idler. Why? - Because any part that touches the cambelt has the potential to damage it. If the water pump bearing locks up, belt gets damaged, same for idler and tensioner (I have seen this one first-hand).

Watch out for cheap quality cam belts, I think you will want to pay just a little more for a good quality belt.

Yes, I say - change the water pump and the tensioner and the idler. Why? - Because any part that touches the cambelt has the potential to damage it. If the water pump bearing locks up, belt gets damaged, same for idler and tensioner (I have seen this one first-hand).

Watch out for cheap quality cam belts, I think you will want to pay just a little more for a good quality belt.

Now it makes sense why the shops sell Cam belt, idler and tensioner as a kit. stupid me, I bought the cam belt on it's own, that needs to go back. Yes i've bought a good kit, SKF Timing Belt Kit.

Some pics of cleaned piston and chamber, I used Wynn's Combustion Chamber Cleaner from ebay.

some more pics of engine.

I’ve finally finished this project, the car has been on the road for a week, no problems at all. THANKS both Arfur Dent & C3CAR for all your advice and help.

I’ll report back in six months’ time to give you a definite answer on whether my rebuild of the turbo has worked.

Just to summarise the problem I had
1) Sudden oil dripping from front of the engine, then saw oil in the breathing pipes that were on top the cylinder head cover.
2) Then the oil dripping gradually increased with loss of power, the car was struggling to go up hills.
3) Oil pressure light stayed on longer than usual, I was also losing oil.

No Mil, only a P1197 error. I had no problems at all with starting the engine.

Cause
Turbo was leaking oil into the compressor side, instead of turbo forcing air into the engine it was forcing air and oil thus loss of power.

Solution
Turbo rebuild – you can find the post on how I did this myself - here

One thing to note before you take the turbine apart that will save you £50 balancing charge is the following. After you have taken the turbo covers off you will be left with two wheels (turbine and compressor) and the housing in the middle. You need to put a mark with a pen on the turbine (exhaust side) wheel and another corresponding parallel line on the compressor wheel and on the nut. Then when you take it off make sure that you do not rub the marks off. Then you can change the bearings and seals and rebuild the turbine making sure that the lines on all three parts are on a straight line. This will save you sending it to be balanced.

I have run Lexia on a number of occasions and the car has absolutely no faults at all.


The P1197, injector control error code was probably related to the injectors.