Fitting aftermarket stereo - where am I going wrong?

Good point. I guess I just bought Autoleads because that's what Halfords and Amazon stock so I thought nothing of it.

I'll get the Connects2 adapter and see how it goes (£40 is cheaper than I'd be to get things looked at). If it does work, I wonder if I've grounds to return the Autoleads one to Amazon...

SUCCESS!

The connects2 adapter is working perfectly. Looking at the wiring, what appears to happen is the CAN-bus adapter takes a permanent live feed (yellow) then (presumably) using a signal from the ignition via one of the other wires it emulates a switched feed (red).

The computer interface via the stalk controls is also working - so no need for a bit of electrical tape to cover up the dash clock! Ideally I'd like to remove it from the display completely, but being able to change it is good enough.

I now wonder if I should send the Autoleads adapter back to Amazon. It was advertised as being compatible with my car but clearly doesn't function as required.

Great to hear of your success.

I know how frustrating it can be to try and make something work that actually never will because it not 100% compatible or there's a fault with it.

I would send the first adaptor back, if it claims to work with your vehicle and doesn't then they shouldn't sell it as such. If you had been paying and auto electrician to do the work you would also be out of pocket for that expense, luckily you didn't but I bet there's plenty who have.

I've been asked by PM if I could update the thread with exactly what worked for me.

Three things in total; the first is the same for everyone and the other two are head unit manufactuer-specific.

1) Connects 2 CTSCT003.2 Steering Wheel Control Interface - https://www.connects2.co.uk/ProductInfor ... x?id=10524

This provides everything required to power the head unit and get sound out of it. It also allows you to change the dash clock etc., an ability that's usually lost when removing the factory-fitted stereo.

2) Connects 2 CTB<MANUFACTURER>LEAD - a list is available on the above link.

This is the flylead that goes from the above control interface to the head unit and allows you to use the stalk controls. These are specific to each head unit manufacturer, so make sure you pick the right one!

3) Connects 2 antena adapter

This is again specific to your head unit depending on what type of antenna socket it has. In general terms, what you need is "Fakra to <TYPE> Antenna Aerial Adapter" and (this is important) it must be powered.

As an example, here's a "Fakra to DIN" adapter - https://www.carcommunications.co.uk/car- ... al-adapter Whichever adapter it is you need, it must have the cylinder and blue wire. That blue wire then connects to the head unit (the relevant wire from the HU should be labelled), which provides power to the booster. I inadvertently bought an unpowered version and although FM was fine, AM was non-existent. But the powered version fixed that.
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As an aside, for the actual fitting of the HU, I was putting in a double din but had 2x single slots. I found that instead of buying a new fascia, I was able to easily cut the plastic bar out with a hacksaw then sand down the stubs left at either side. And by leaving a small amount of plastic at each side, it gives a tighter fit for the cradle.

I hope this helps anyone to have a smoother ride than I did!

m7891 wrote:I've been asked by PM if I could update the thread with exactly what worked for me.

Thank you! I wasn't expecting so much effort, but its very much appreciated