Hello,
I've installed an aftermarket radio Pionieer MVH-310BT and I'm very happy about it. There is only one thing that bothers me - is it possible to connect +12V after ignition in such a way that radio won't be cut off while starting the engine?
I've connected +12V for power (not for the memory) to the cigarette lighter. Now when I turn only ignition on radio will start, but while changing from ignition to starting engine radio will loose power.
Are there any connections that are not shut down while the engine starts?
I have only Furio model, so I don't have screen, only small clock. I think the clock dims very much while starting engine.
In attachments you can find electrical schematics that I've found online.
With best regards!
Aftermarket radio installation
Forum rules
Only post questions about AUDIO equipment in this topic please. In car entertainment, ICE, Android Auto, stereo and sat-nav are all welcome here
Only post questions about AUDIO equipment in this topic please. In car entertainment, ICE, Android Auto, stereo and sat-nav are all welcome here
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- Posts: 1196
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Automatic PRND
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
- Has thanked: 59 times
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The ignition switch has 3 SETS of contacts with 4 positions on each. Off, accessories, ignition and start. Unfortunately there are no sets of contacts that work in accessories AND ignition AND start.
You will need to put a diode in circuit between the cigarette lighter power (that you are using at the moment) and another diode connecting radio power to pin 5 of the black 10 pin connector on the BSI. OR connect that diode to F11 of the BSI. You will need to find the "power side" of F11.
The diodes will need to have the same current rating as the radio power fuse (or a bit more).
Optional would be a second diode on the BSI side so that the radio only draws current from the BSI at start up and no other time. This is only if you use F11 as "start power". If you connect to the wire at pin 5 of the black connector, you can omit the extra diode. This is to protect the BSI circuit board. I don't know how much current it can take and I don't know how much current the radio will draw.
You will need to put a diode in circuit between the cigarette lighter power (that you are using at the moment) and another diode connecting radio power to pin 5 of the black 10 pin connector on the BSI. OR connect that diode to F11 of the BSI. You will need to find the "power side" of F11.
The diodes will need to have the same current rating as the radio power fuse (or a bit more).
Optional would be a second diode on the BSI side so that the radio only draws current from the BSI at start up and no other time. This is only if you use F11 as "start power". If you connect to the wire at pin 5 of the black connector, you can omit the extra diode. This is to protect the BSI circuit board. I don't know how much current it can take and I don't know how much current the radio will draw.
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- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2020 11:58 am
- Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
- Year: 2005 (05)
- Engine Size: 1.1
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 27000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: LHD (Europe)
- Engine name: TU1 (60 PS)
- Has thanked: 21 times
- Been thanked: 9 times
Hello,
Thank you for fast and detailed answer.
Would it be good idea to put a relay which would have coil power from F11 (15A, Ignition switch OBD) and would switch for radio always +12V (and there diode as in schematic)?
Then the current for radio in starting state won't come from F11. My idea for this connection: Best regards!
Thank you for fast and detailed answer.
Would it be good idea to put a relay which would have coil power from F11 (15A, Ignition switch OBD) and would switch for radio always +12V (and there diode as in schematic)?
Then the current for radio in starting state won't come from F11. My idea for this connection: Best regards!
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- Posts: 844
- Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:29 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2004 (04)
- Engine Size: 1.1
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: United Kingdom
- Has thanked: 46 times
- Been thanked: 35 times
Relays are good for isolating circuits, however they contain a coil which can damage the circuit that is driving it when it's switched on and off. I would suggest at the very least connect a diode in parallel with the relay coil - positive end of diode to positive supply side of the coil - to reduce back EMF which the coil produces when switched off.
If you need to use a relay you could consider a solid state type, these do away with the coil and physical contacts and use circuitry which is a lot 'kinder' to whatever is being used to drive the relay.
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all the evidence and pretend you never tried 

-
- Posts: 32
- Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2020 11:58 am
- Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
- Year: 2005 (05)
- Engine Size: 1.1
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 27000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: LHD (Europe)
- Engine name: TU1 (60 PS)
- Has thanked: 21 times
- Been thanked: 9 times
Hi,
I have encountered a problem - F11 is always active. I installed a 12V probe and tested when it's active. It has 12V even after doors were closed and after "goodbye" relay has switched (lights etc.). Do you know any other solution? Maybe BSI logic is slighty different than in pre-facelift version?
Best regards!
I have encountered a problem - F11 is always active. I installed a 12V probe and tested when it's active. It has 12V even after doors were closed and after "goodbye" relay has switched (lights etc.). Do you know any other solution? Maybe BSI logic is slighty different than in pre-facelift version?
Best regards!
-
- Posts: 1196
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Automatic PRND
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 351 times
Yes you are right. I don't know what I was thinking. Sorry.
There is a problem with the face lift circuit diagrams. There is no sets of "accessory/ignition" contacts. If you look at the pre-facelift circuit, there is a third set of contacts.
Also the way the circuit diagram is drawn, for the key switch, is incorrect. Power comes in on the moving contacts, it should come in on the static contacts (see second pic).
If you follow the ignition switch circuit for the facelift diagram, the BSI only gets power in the "start" position. That is NOT correct! The radio should have power in the accessories (on) and ignition positions. This is what the switch looks like. The big green connector is the 3 way connector. The small black connector goes to the BSI.
You may also notice that the two wires going from the ignition switch to the BSI in the pre-facelift circuits are not labeled and they are missing all together in the facelift diagrams. I honestly do not know if the facelift ignition switch has the second 2-way connector. It must have, for the "acc/ign" circuits (like the radio) to operate!
You will need to find the equivalent of BSI fuse F6 in the pre-facelift circuit. That is; a fuse that has power in the ignition and start positions.
Where did you get your copies of the facelift circuits? They are hard to come by!
There is a problem with the face lift circuit diagrams. There is no sets of "accessory/ignition" contacts. If you look at the pre-facelift circuit, there is a third set of contacts.
Also the way the circuit diagram is drawn, for the key switch, is incorrect. Power comes in on the moving contacts, it should come in on the static contacts (see second pic).
If you follow the ignition switch circuit for the facelift diagram, the BSI only gets power in the "start" position. That is NOT correct! The radio should have power in the accessories (on) and ignition positions. This is what the switch looks like. The big green connector is the 3 way connector. The small black connector goes to the BSI.
You may also notice that the two wires going from the ignition switch to the BSI in the pre-facelift circuits are not labeled and they are missing all together in the facelift diagrams. I honestly do not know if the facelift ignition switch has the second 2-way connector. It must have, for the "acc/ign" circuits (like the radio) to operate!
You will need to find the equivalent of BSI fuse F6 in the pre-facelift circuit. That is; a fuse that has power in the ignition and start positions.
Where did you get your copies of the facelift circuits? They are hard to come by!
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