Removing radiator in 2003 C3
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
Hi, hoping someone can help. I've a big leak in my radiator from corrosion along the bottom edge of it, coolant completely gone and possible blown head gasket (but won't know until rad is fixed).
I need to replace the radiator. Is this a straightforward job or should I just bite the bullet and go to the mechanic (I've not requested a quote as yet)? It looks like all I need to do is remove the large hose connections and a couple of other attachments and lift it straight up. There are a couple of connectors I can't figure out however, images below:
Any tips on how to get these off?
Thanks.
I need to replace the radiator. Is this a straightforward job or should I just bite the bullet and go to the mechanic (I've not requested a quote as yet)? It looks like all I need to do is remove the large hose connections and a couple of other attachments and lift it straight up. There are a couple of connectors I can't figure out however, images below:
Any tips on how to get these off?
Thanks.
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- Posts: 2013
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 79984
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 146 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
nostromo wrote: Any tips on how to get these off?
Thanks.
Hi nostromo,
For the radiator mountings you need 2 small flat bladed screwdrivers and locate these in the slots indicated by the arrows. Use the screwdrivers to depress the tabs in the mounting. With the tabs depressed, move the radiator towards the engine to disengage the clip.
For your norma clip, its usually a case of levering off the retaining clip with a small flat bladed screw driver. On some clips the retaining clip is just moved, other times it can be removed to allow the pipe to be disconnected. I will get some more specific instructions for you and post them here.
Worth checking the oil, dipstick, filler cap and drain the oil out to have advance notification of head gasket failure (water in the oil).nostromo wrote:possible blown head gasket (but won't know until rad is fixed).
Easy job for the rad. Remove the bonnet catch and the cooling fan. Refill with the correct coolant, but if your head gasket is blown, would you spend the money on a new radiator and coolant?nostromo wrote:Is this a straightforward job or should I just bite the bullet and go to the mechanic
The head gasket is a much more difficult and time consuming job where you will be changing the cam belt, tensioner, idler and water pump in the same job.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
Thanks for the pointers.
Hopeful that the gasket is not blown as it was such a big leak we were instantly aware there was a problem and didn't drive the car. My usual mechanic has just replaced the timing belt a month or two ago and he already tacked on the tensioner and water pump into that job.
Hopeful that the gasket is not blown as it was such a big leak we were instantly aware there was a problem and didn't drive the car. My usual mechanic has just replaced the timing belt a month or two ago and he already tacked on the tensioner and water pump into that job.
-
- Posts: 2013
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 79984
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 146 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
I have some photos for disconnecting the NORMA clips found on the cooling system of the C3. Its good to hear you are keeping up with the maintenance regarding the cam belt and its associated parts, so often overlooked. The only niggle is that the cam belt will have to be disturbed to remove the head, but there is nothing you can do about that.nostromo wrote:Thanks for the pointers.
Hopeful that the gasket is not blown as it was such a big leak we were instantly aware there was a problem and didn't drive the car. My usual mechanic has just replaced the timing belt a month or two ago and he already tacked on the tensioner and water pump into that job.
This NORMA clip is found on the header/expansion tank and is the same as the other NORMA clip found on the radiator but this one is easier to photograph. The NORMA seals with an 'O' ring, so its worth checking the 'O' ring is in good condition when refitting, or just change it as a matter of course.
The NORMA clip marked PA6 GF50
PA6 GF50 doesn't identify the part, only the material its made from - a form of nylon.
To disconnect the norma fitting, firstly lift the locking ring which is arrowed
The clip and be fully removed by continuing to lift it away from the pipe. With the clip removed, the pipe an be pulled from the expansion tank or radiator housing.
A slide show reading from left to right showing the clip removal and NORMA coupling disconnection on a Citroen C3
Click the image to see an enlarged version.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
Thanks. I've just taken the rad out, quite straightforward. I need to figure out what my 'core' measurement is (I think 19mm) to pick up a correct replacement. The sticker on the rad is Valeo RM 1253 356587N, hopefully easy to find this.
-
- Posts: 2013
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 79984
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 146 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
Have you tried www.eurocarparts.com and just enter your reg no into the search box and get presented with the right one.nostromo wrote:Thanks. I've just taken the rad out, quite straightforward. I need to figure out what my 'core' measurement is (I think 19mm) to pick up a correct replacement. The sticker on the rad is Valeo RM 1253 356587N, hopefully easy to find this.
-
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
Radiator installed. No more leaks. Coolant/water isn't rising up back through the reservoir and there's no water coming out of the exhaust. However the temperature gauge is still reading hot. I think there may be air trapped in the system where the thermostat is. Are there any bleed screws in the coolant system that I should be opening to release any air, anyone got any pics?
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- Posts: 3547
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 3:47 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (52)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 100000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 355 times
- Been thanked: 139 times
Did you use the 'header trick'? found here https://citroenc3owners.com/citroen-c3-t ... t-t40.htmlnostromo wrote:I think there may be air trapped in the system where the thermostat is
There is one just above the thermostat housing (no.3)nostromo wrote:Are there any bleed screws in the coolant system that I should be opening to release any air,
and one on the heater matrix outlet where it passes through the bulkhead.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Wed Jul 30, 2014 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
I found the small dust-cap valve behind the air filter, I think that's the heater matrix outlet one yeah?
Unfortunately I think the gasket is blown; I ran the engine to hot and the coolant in the reservoir started to very slowly rise. The fan kicked in but before it kicked off again bubbles started forming in the coolant reservoir and then suddenly the pressure was to much and the small norma-clip pipe blew off the radiator. i should say that there is no overflow tube on my reservoir. I put it all back together again, filled it up, bled it and the same happened again. Oh well, a few things learned but a trip to the mechanic is called for I think.
Unfortunately I think the gasket is blown; I ran the engine to hot and the coolant in the reservoir started to very slowly rise. The fan kicked in but before it kicked off again bubbles started forming in the coolant reservoir and then suddenly the pressure was to much and the small norma-clip pipe blew off the radiator. i should say that there is no overflow tube on my reservoir. I put it all back together again, filled it up, bled it and the same happened again. Oh well, a few things learned but a trip to the mechanic is called for I think.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2015 9:16 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 100000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Thanks for your helpful post.
I have just replaced my rad as it was leaking from the off side base.
Put everything back together, but the plastic clip/hose from the expansion tank into the bottom of the rad (near side) is now leaking.
The diameter of the new inlet is the same as the old rad, and the connector "clicks" in to place reassuringly.
However, when I start to fill up the expansion tank, the connection drips water.
Should there be an O-ring in that connector?
Or is there something I am missing?
Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appeciated, pulling my hair out here in the freezing cold snow and hail!
I have just replaced my rad as it was leaking from the off side base.
Put everything back together, but the plastic clip/hose from the expansion tank into the bottom of the rad (near side) is now leaking.
The diameter of the new inlet is the same as the old rad, and the connector "clicks" in to place reassuringly.
However, when I start to fill up the expansion tank, the connection drips water.
Should there be an O-ring in that connector?
Or is there something I am missing?
Any thoughts or suggestions greatly appeciated, pulling my hair out here in the freezing cold snow and hail!
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