Recharged battery and now will not start

Have you checked battery and engine earth connections and the starter motor cable?

Thanks for your posts.
The cam belt is OK, The fuel is OK,
The starter test and locating and checking the earth connections was a bit beyond me so I called in a mobile mechanic.
He plugged in his computer and checked everything and found nothing wrong. He tried a spare coil pack to no avail.
He is coming back with an auto electrician next week. He said that there is no power going to the coil pack plug (but I may have misheard him)
I will report the next progress.

The news is not good, it seems that the compression pressure is too low to start the engine.
There is probably a crack in the cylinder block.
It is terminal, and sadly a car that I have had from new is now worthless, even though the rest of it is in good condition.
Well that's life and I will have to dispose of it.
Thanks again for all the help you have given me on this forum.

There is probably a crack in the cylinder block

How did you get to that diagnosis.

Frankie wrote: ↑Fri Feb 26, 2021 3:06 pm The news is not good, it seems that the compression pressure is too low to start the engine.
There is probably a crack in the cylinder block.
It is terminal, and sadly a car that I have had from new is now worthless, even though the rest of it is in good condition.
Well that's life and I will have to dispose of it.
Thanks again for all the help you have given me on this forum.

The TU3JP engines have wet liners and they can be replaced but they rarely fail that way. The cylinder head might be warped or have a crack but the most likely reason for low compression is a blown head gasket. You might get low compression on one or two cylinders but the engine should still start. It will run very badly but it still should run.
As Arfur says, how did you get to that conclusion when the original fault was the starter motor not running?
Are you saying the engine is seized?

The Auto engineers checked the compression and found 60 in one and 90 in the next. (they only checked 2)
They looked at the dip stick and said that it had water in the oil.
From this they told me that it is either a blown head gasket or a crack due to a lack of anti freeze in freezing conditions.
Either way it seems more expensive than the value of the car.
The engine is not seized and it very nearly started at my first attempt for a few days and then it just kept spinning without trying to connect.
Both of the engineers gave it a good try and would only take petrol money for their efforts.

Frankie wrote: ↑Sun Feb 28, 2021 4:24 pm
They looked at the dip stick and said that it had water in the oil.
From this they told me that it is either a blown head gasket or a crack due to a lack of anti freeze in freezing conditions.

No antifreeze? Why not?

I keep antifreeze in all year around because it also has the corrosion inhibitors.