Unless it returns, I intend to leave well alone. INMHO perhaps I've disturbed the wiring or routing of it. Thanx for help.

It would be the sensor after the cat (downstream) which would be the one I would change, if I couldn't do the correct diagnosis by looking at the waveforms.Roland wrote:Knowing what you do, is it time to buy the front sensor ie ahead of the cat?
The MIL is brought up when a severe fault is detected by the on-board computer. The fault light could be due to many reasons and readings from a sensor (correctly reading or mis-reading) are the start. Diagnosis and fault reading is the next step, then changing parts and testing is the last.jayneey wrote:Have seen elsewhere that dodgy sensors can trigger the light coming on, anyone know anything about this?
The lambda sensor is the O2 sensor, the ones found in the exhaust system.jayneey wrote:he garage chap said the first time it came on it could be the cat, so when it came on again he replaced it and am sue he said one of the Lambda (don't know if that's right; is it a fancy name for sensor?).
One of these USB OBD2 scanners should do the trick (if you have a spare laptop)jayneey wrote:Not sure of the code, but am splashing out a tenner on a OBD2 thing off amazon on payday, to try and keep an eye on my car and ee if it is just the same fault.
You should get the green light on the dashboard when the dipped lights are on.jayneey wrote:Also, i don't have a light on the dash when i dip my headlights? the blue symbol comes on for mainbeam, but nothing when dipped, just the spotlight? Is this normal? (it's my first car. i am terrified of it....)
Yes, the Maxiscan MS309 will do the basics for engine codes on the C3.Am trying this fella, saw the bluetooth ones but brain can't cope with that level of high tech! If i could get a reading from tin cans and string i probably would.....