Citroen C3 Owners

My C3 starts fine with stable tickover but as soon as the accelerator is depressed the engine judders and stalls. My Ancel VD500 had 1 error code - P1153 which has been cleared but the problem remains this time not producing any error codes. My gut feeling is a faulty accelerator pedal module but is there anyway of checking this to verify before replacing this part - has anyone else experienced this problem? as i am scratching my head somewhat

Sim50 wrote: ↑Tue Jul 24, 2018 5:15 pm My C3 starts fine with stable tickover but as soon as the accelerator is depressed the engine judders and stalls. My Ancel VD500 had 1 error code - P1153 which has been cleared but the problem remains this time not producing any error codes. My gut feeling is a faulty accelerator pedal module but is there anyway of checking this to verify before replacing this part - has anyone else experienced this problem? as i am scratching my head somewhat

Hi

I Have 2 similar descriptions for P1153 on the C3 petrol, ECU - adaptation to throttle valve not complete
and Bank 2 Fuel control shifted lean.

The throttle pedal is an easy change and its the same part for diesel and petrols, so there are plenty to choose from on ebay (here).

TPS removal instructions in Accelerator Pedal, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Removal topic.

Thanks - I've ordered an assy from ebay - fingers crossed

I have this very same problem. It happened when I had to do an emergency stop to avoid a careless van driver. Immediately the engine would only rev at 1000 to 1500 rpm. I assumed the ECU had shut down the 'fly-drive' as it would in a collision. ignition off and on again should have reset it. Since then I have had a competent engine repair garage work 4 hours on it, while consulting with me. OBD, of course, shows no faults. Eventually they handed back the car with an apology for spending my money and failing to cure.
Once I got it home, I checked fuel flow, I dismantled the air valve and found the ECU didn't signal it to open the butterfly, though the air valve motor worked on a battery fed test. I checked for a broken baffle clogging the exhaust, I power latched the ECU using the correct procedure. Finally, on reading your notes here, I have removed the throttle pedal and cleaned the row of connectors where they spring load on to the PCB inside the pedal.
No Joy. Engine starts and runs perfectly until the pedal takes it to no load 1700 rpm. Above this it fires for 3 seconds, starves for 2 seconds, fires for 3 seconds and continues in this mode. Under load the threshold of this problem is about 1200 rpm. I have sent off for a replacement pedal from e-bay. I somehow have a nagging doubt that it is the ECU that is failing me and not the sensors in the throttle pedal. It must be the emergency shut down that should have reset when I power latched the ECU. I will report further developments, Granny Ruth.

GrannyRuth wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:44 pm I have this very same problem. It happened when I had to do an emergency stop to avoid a careless van driver. Immediately the engine would only rev at 1000 to 1500 rpm. I assumed the ECU had shut down the 'fly-drive' as it would in a collision. ignition off and on again should have reset it. Since then I have had a competent engine repair garage work 4 hours on it, while consulting with me. OBD, of course, shows no faults. Eventually they handed back the car with an apology for spending my money and failing to cure.
Once I got it home, I checked fuel flow, I dismantled the air valve and found the ECU didn't signal it to open the butterfly, though the air valve motor worked on a battery fed test. I checked for a broken baffle clogging the exhaust, I power latched the ECU using the correct procedure. Finally, on reading your notes here, I have removed the throttle pedal and cleaned the row of connectors where they spring load on to the PCB inside the pedal.
No Joy. Engine starts and runs perfectly until the pedal takes it to no load 1700 rpm. Above this it fires for 3 seconds, starves for 2 seconds, fires for 3 seconds and continues in this mode. Under load the threshold of this problem is about 1200 rpm. I have sent off for a replacement pedal from e-bay. I somehow have a nagging doubt that it is the ECU that is failing me and not the sensors in the throttle pedal. It must be the emergency shut down that should have reset when I power latched the ECU. I will report further developments, Granny Ruth.

Hi Granny Ruth

Since you are looking at the TPS (throttle pedal) then also look at the throttle pedal connector in the passenger compartment only found on RHD cars. The connector is used on the pedal for LHD cars but is only an extension on RHD and the plug/socket causes problems.

The solution is to remove the plug/socket in the passenger footwell and solder and insulate the wires directly.

For this fault, I would except TPS copy faults in OBD2, but if your engine is in limp mode there should be faults stored...


Have you removed the fuel filler cap? Does it sound like the tank is not venting correctly and the cap removal makes an unusual sound?

Thanks. I read about this spare connector yesterday and will ferret it out today armed with self-amalgamating tape. Air venting on fuel cap was my very first check. Relying, at the moment, on a very old but 100% reliable small foreign car that was made before the introduction of ECU destabilised everything .
I used to write a monthly chapter for the Citroen Visa owners in the Citroen Car Club magazine. I had a 4 door convertible ( only 28 were made!) I ran it for 240.000 miles from new and loved it, then gave it to a pal in Shetlands where MOTs are less rigorous.


Saturday update. I have now changed the throttle pedal sought out the Lhd connector and disconnected it from the dummy pedal socket. On inspection, there appeared to be no shorting connecting wires or socket ends. I didn't cut and solder, because I might use the old pedal as a test on it to find signal voltages. I reset (power latched) the Ecu computer again. There is no change in the fault. I am returning to the ECU as the source of the trouble and may try changing it with all the fuss that the change will entail. I am getting very close to admitting that it will have to be scrapped.

Arfur Dent wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 3:06 pm

GrannyRuth wrote: ↑Tue Jul 31, 2018 2:44 pm I have this very same problem. It happened when I had to do an emergency stop to avoid a careless van driver. Immediately the engine would only rev at 1000 to 1500 rpm. I assumed the ECU had shut down the 'fly-drive' as it would in a collision. ignition off and on again should have reset it. Since then I have had a competent engine repair garage work 4 hours on it, while consulting with me. OBD, of course, shows no faults. Eventually they handed back the car with an apology for spending my money and failing to cure.
Once I got it home, I checked fuel flow, I dismantled the air valve and found the ECU didn't signal it to open the butterfly, though the air valve motor worked on a battery fed test. I checked for a broken baffle clogging the exhaust, I power latched the ECU using the correct procedure. Finally, on reading your notes here, I have removed the throttle pedal and cleaned the row of connectors where they spring load on to the PCB inside the pedal.
No Joy. Engine starts and runs perfectly until the pedal takes it to no load 1700 rpm. Above this it fires for 3 seconds, starves for 2 seconds, fires for 3 seconds and continues in this mode. Under load the threshold of this problem is about 1200 rpm. I have sent off for a replacement pedal from e-bay. I somehow have a nagging doubt that it is the ECU that is failing me and not the sensors in the throttle pedal. It must be the emergency shut down that should have reset when I power latched the ECU. I will report further developments, Granny Ruth.

Hi Granny Ruth

Since you are looking at the TPS (throttle pedal) then also look at the throttle pedal connector in the passenger compartment only found on RHD cars. The connector is used on the pedal for LHD cars but is only an extension on RHD and the plug/socket causes problems.

The solution is to remove the plug/socket in the passenger footwell and solder and insulate the wires directly.

For this fault, I would except TPS copy faults in OBD2, but if your engine is in limp mode there should be faults stored...


Have you removed the fuel filler cap? Does it sound like the tank is not venting correctly and the cap removal makes an unusual sound?

We have the same problem. I have no clue what it might be

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