Accelerator peddal problem/pedal return spring

Dr Diesel · Post Mon Aug 24, 2020 2:08 pm

Hi All

My C3 seems to have developed a strange intermittent problem recently. Occasionally when I release the pedal to change gear the engine seems to take longer than usual for the rev's to drop, as if the throttle return spring has snapped or become week.

Also when I fully depress the accelerator pedal it almost reaches the extent of its travel and hits some resitance, press down a further couple of MM, 1/8th of an inch in proper money and there is a definite plastic click from around the pedal box. I've had a good look for anything obvious like a trapped piece of carpet or trim and couldn't find a thing.

So could the internals of the accelerator be failing?

I also have clutch, has a vague biting point and can judder from time to time topic that happened around the same time.

Many thanks

C3CAR · Post Mon Aug 24, 2020 4:54 pm

Dr Diesel wrote: ↑Mon Aug 24, 2020 2:08 pm Hi All

My C3 seems to have developed a strange intermittent problem recently. Occasionally when I release the pedal to change gear the engine seems to take longer than usual for the rev's to drop, as if the throttle return spring has snapped or become week.

Also when I fully depress the accelerator pedal it almost reaches the extent of its travel and hits some resitance, press down a further couple of MM, 1/8th of an inch in proper money and there is a definite plastic click from around the pedal box. I've had a good look for anything obvious like a trapped piece of carpet or trim and couldn't find a thing.

So could the internals of the accelerator be failing?

Many thanks

The accelerator pedal on the C3 is usually fly by wire, electronic system, with the exception of some of the 1.1 engines.

Yours is listed as a 1.1 and on that year is probably the TU1 engine and that could well be the old fashioned mechanical system.

It would be easy to check for an accelerator cable attached to the pedal, or just look for the electrical plugs being connected or not fitted to the pedal to see which you have.

Knowing which one you have will make the difference on how to diagnose it.

Dr Diesel · Post Tue Nov 03, 2020 9:09 pm

Just checked and changed the engine size, its a 1.2 VTI unit, so it would be drive by wire as there's a block connector on the pedal

Dr Diesel · Post Tue Nov 10, 2020 6:26 pm

Another quick update and hopefully some advice.

After talking to a mobile mechanic today when he was checking over the car for the MOT, he seems to think it could be the clutch release bearing guide tube at fault as this will cause the various vibrations on the pedal and juddering when moving off. To change this would require removal of the gearbox.

When I've done jobs like this in the past, I've gone for the belt and braces approach, changing warn adjacent parts when I'm in there, so is it wise to change the driveshaft seals, clutch release fork as well thinking if the release bearing has been loose on the tube, it may have worn the points where it is mounted to the release lever

Just what you need this close to Christmas, £400 bill for the clutch!

C3CAR · Post Tue Nov 10, 2020 6:45 pm

Dr Diesel wrote: ↑Tue Nov 10, 2020 6:26 pm Another quick update and hopefully some advice.

After talking to a mobile mechanic today when he was checking over the car for the MOT, he seems to think it could be the clutch release bearing guide tube at fault as this will cause the various vibrations on the pedal and juddering when moving off. To change this would require removal of the gearbox.

When I've done jobs like this in the past, I've gone for the belt and braces approach, changing warn adjacent parts when I'm in there, so is it wise to change the driveshaft seals, clutch release fork as well thinking if the release bearing has been loose on the tube, it may have worn the points where it is mounted to the release lever

Just what you need this close to Christmas, £400 bill for the clutch!

Always worth changing the additional clutch components when you have the gearbox off. Its the time that costs the money, the extra parts are relatively cheap.

It won't do any harm to change the drive shaft oil seals. While it's all off, gearbox oil too.

Dr Diesel · Post Tue Nov 10, 2020 8:18 pm

Thanks for the quick reply, many years ago I done a similar job on a Peugeot 309 Mk1 (remember those) 1.9 non turbo diesel and adding some molysip into the gearbox oil as I was pulling a caravan and trailer around the country. I scrapped it at just under 300,000 when the clutch needed doing again as well as the head gasket going

When I think about it, this is the first major expense apart from renewables such as tyres and brakes in 18 months and just over 19,000 miles. I am planning to change it around the 80k mark, or bit the bullet and have the cam belt and water pump done

Looks like the credit card is coming out of retirement and open an account with GSF!

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