2004 1.4i injector seals

Hi all,
Just putting my 2004 1.4 back together folowing head gasket failure. Noticed that one of the injectors was completely different to the others (No.4 cylinder - counting from the flywheel end, presumably been changed following water ingress from leaky windscreen washers, which I gather is a common problem). So I decided to fit a spare fuel rail and injectors I've got on the shelf, and though it would be sensible to fit new O-ring seals on the injector noses (cylinder head side). Looked up the appropriate parts fiche and found this: Which says both top and bottom seals are part number 1981.53 . Ok, ordered some from the local dealer (at an eye-watering 4.6 euros EACH). They turned up today, but they don't fit. The nose seals on the injectors are very clearly different to the fuel rail side seals. As you can see here. Nose (engine) side on the left, fuel rail side on the right. The 1981.53 seals that have turned up are correct for the ones on the right but simply don't fit on the left. Of the eight injectors on the two rails I have, seven are exactly like this (the other is the non-standard one).
Does anyone know what's going on? Or can suggest a source for the right seals for these injectors? I know they're not so critical as the rail side ones, but even so I'd like to get it right!

All advice gratefully received.

Kevin

I think I've solved my own question...

I was looking at the wrong parts fiche! I was looking at the "All alcohol and 95Ron Flex Fuel" fiche, should have been looking at the 'everything else' fiche...
Oh well, might help someone else.

Part number 1981.47 for the pair.

I don't know if you have seen the blurb on fuel injectors here:
tips-for-a-petrol-powered-c3-f7/how-to- ... t3910.html
It's a long story but two of my fuel injectors were blocked and in replacing them, I found one of the four "thin" orings had twisted around.
My solution was to buy four cheap Chinese injectors giving me brand new orings. Yes, buying cheap Chinese injector is not a wise move. But that's another story.
The point is, for a little while I was faced with the same dilemma you were; how to replace the orings?

The secret sauce for installing the orings (and the injectors) is Petroleum jelly. Remember "There is always time for lube"!

Thanks for that. Good tip about buying cheap injectors for the seals. Because I had a spare rail and injectors I was able to make one good set of nose injectors, and the 'wrong' ones I'd bought were right for the fuel rail side, which is high pressure so more important anyway. So all good now (I hope). I used a little red rubber grease on the seals for fitting ( because that's what I had to hand) and it made life a lot easier. Hoping to get the head torqued down, valves adjusted and everything else back together today and see if it's all good.

Great write-up on replacing injectors, by the way!

KevRide wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 8:48 am I used a little red rubber grease on the seals for fitting ( because that's what I had to hand) and it made life a lot easier.

Good. Red rubber grease is the best because that's what its designed for. I only recommend petroleum jelly because it does the job and is cheap and easy to find. Buying a whole tub of rubber grease for just this job would be a waste. I have found plain vanilla grease not good on rubber parts in the long term. It glues the rubber to the metal.
Having said all that though, if you are going to do serious work on your brakes you'll need the rubber grease. No doubt that's why you had it?

KevRide wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 8:48 am Hoping to get the head torqued down, valves adjusted and everything else back together today and see if it's all good.

I have not dealt with torque-to-yield Head bolts and it frightens the sh out of me! But...I'll have to do it one day.

Please, let us know how you get on.

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:20 pm
I have not dealt with torque-to-yield Head bolts and it frightens the sh out of me! But...I'll have to do it one day.

Please, let us know how you get on.

The head bolts are no problem. 20Nm initial setting (which is virtually nothing), then 240 degrees turn (which is quite a lot!). I did the initial setting, then marked each bolt head at the 12 o'clock position with a dab of paint. Then it was easy to see when they were at 240 degrees, which equates to 8 o'clock.

Now all up and running again, and about to take it for a test drive. Would have been up and running yesterday afternoon, but when I put the head back on, I forgot to put the exhaust maniold to cat gasket in place first, so once I'd done the head I had to then drop the cat and front pipe to fit the gasket... Although that wasn't so bad as I discovered the mounting bracket to the gearbox flange was cracked almost right through, so I welded it up while it was off.

KevRide wrote: ↑Sat Feb 06, 2021 10:03 am then 240 degrees turn (which is quite a lot!).

That's what scares me.

KevRide wrote: ↑Sat Feb 06, 2021 10:03 am I discovered the mounting bracket to the gearbox flange was cracked almost right through.

Is your CAT/down pipe OEM or after market?
Had a similar problem with mine. But it's after market. Replaced the whole assembly. If you are interested in why, have a look over here:

tips-for-a-petrol-powered-c3-f7/how-to- ... t4270.html

I'll have a look at that. I don't know if mine is OE or aftermarket. I bought the car on Ebay in late 2019 in a hurry (my wife had smashed up her previous Pug 106 which I'd just completely rebuilt...) and got no history with it. Came from a Cit dealer who'd taken it as a trade-in and I bought it unseen, thinking if it was crap I'd just move it on. Turned out the interior was filthy (since replaced the pale blue seats with black velour ones), and the clutch was almost gone (new one fitted in a couple of hours once I got it home), but otherwise so far we've been very pleased with it. Unlike a lot of them, it's not a rotbox, has never been welded, so that's a plus. Only ongoing problem is the sound of water sloshing around somewhere, but I can't find where. I think it may be in the heater box or ducting.
Paid £357 for it, but then I found seven quid under the seats when I changed them, so that brought it down to a nice round 350...

I bought two C3's about a year ago (hmm,well, maybe more than a year). Each for about the equivalent of what you paid. If you are interested, my trials and tribulations are documented over here:

the-citroen-c3-club-area-whats-great-ab ... t3521.html

The good thing about owning a modern car in AUS is there isn't much rainfall (well, here in Queensland) and the modern bodies just don't rust!

Take the scuttle panel off and see if the two drain holes on either side of the bottom of the windscreen are blocked. The scuttle panel (if you don't know) are the plastic panels between the bonnet and the windscreen. Where the windscreen wiper arms stick out.