Yep, had all that off, and it's clean as a whistle! Cleaned out the drain holes on the sills too. But when I had the scuttle off, I found the cabin pollen filter housing was dislodged (clips broken, I've since bolted it in place. I think maybe water was running down the screen and straight into the filter housing, and then down into the heater unit. What I haven't found yet is if there's a drain hole for that! Will check your other reports when I get a minute - got to fix my tractor first...
2004 1.4i injector seals
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- Posts: 10
- Joined: Fri Jan 08, 2021 2:36 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2004 (54)
- Engine Size: 1.4
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 130000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 2 times
- Been thanked: 3 times
- My Name: Arfur Dent
- Posts: 3628
- Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 3:47 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (52)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 100000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 397 times
- Been thanked: 148 times
Ozvtr wrote: ↑Fri Feb 05, 2021 9:20 pmGood. Red rubber grease is the best because that's what its designed for. I only recommend petroleum jelly because it does the job and is cheap and easy to find. Buying a whole tub of rubber grease for just this job would be a waste. I have found plain vanilla grease not good on rubber parts in the long term. It glues the rubber to the metal.
Having said all that though, if you are going to do serious work on your brakes you'll need the rubber grease. No doubt that's why you had it?
I have not dealt with torque-to-yield Head bolts and it frightens the sh out of me! But...I'll have to do it one day.
Please, let us know how you get on.
You can add an avatar to your account - Avatar or change your vehicle details - Car Bio or even add a signature to your posts - Signature. But this is not all you can do in the User Control Panel 

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