2004 1.4 petrol Timing belt change.

So I have locked the Cams and crank put my own timing marks on there so I can see myself whether it's timed. There are a couple of marks on the cams bit they don't line up with anything?

I have then fitted the belt starting from the crank.

Tightened the tensioner as per instructions.....is it possible I've damaged it?

Unlocked both cams and crank turned it clock wise 2x full revolutions and it moved by the same amount. Is this most likely to be the belt then changing teeth and moving it out of time? I've watched it round and it doesn't seem to jump at all?

Maybe it's happening underneath?

Getting so frustrated 2 days trying to time the engine

aturnernffc wrote: ↑Tue Feb 05, 2019 11:13 amThe cams stay in sync but when I align the crank shaft up it's a few degrees out?

Hello aturnernffc.

Your post suggests to me that you either have the wrong length of belt or you're not threading it properly around the pulleys. The side between the cam shaft pulleys and crank shaft pulley which doesn't have the tensioner needs to be tensioned while threading or you run the risk of being a tooth out before you've had chance to set the tensioner on the 'slack' side.

aturnernffc wrote: ↑Tue Feb 05, 2019 12:11 pm So I have locked the Cams and crank put my own timing marks on there so I can see myself whether it's timed. There are a couple of marks on the cams bit they don't line up with anything?

The cam timing is done by locking both camshaft toothed pulleys with the right size drill bit or bolts.

You can find a locking hole on the crank pulley, the one on the lower picture. This one is a diesel, but they have similar setups to the petrol.

Fit the belt, aligning the marks on it (if they are there) with the marks on the pulleys, over the crankshaft, over the cams keeping it tight as you go. This is a bit tricky but all the slack needs to be on the tensioner side, then waterpump and finally the tensioner.

Do the tensioner next by following the instructions about slackening it off and adjusting it to maximum.

Remove the locking pins

Do your 4 manual revolutions

Refit the crank locking pin

Do the tensioner again to set it to the normal running position

Remove the crank locking pin now the tensioner is set.

Do 2 manual revolutions and check the tensioner is indicating the correct position with its little arm.

(you may have a different tensioner, so it is better to follow the instructions that came with the belt kit).

To check the timing you re-insert the bolts into the timing places and if they fit, its good (but if the tensioner is showing correctly and its all the right parts, you should be spot on).

Thank you all I think I was worrying about the wrong side when putting the belt out.

You are correct when the crank cam side of the engine needed to be tight.

I stripped it all down took your advice all of it. I then slowly went through the whole process. And wolaaaah it didn't move.

I also found the correct drawing which il post below to help others.

Again thanks to everyone who has inputted putting me in the right direction. I will let you know how the dreaded start up went.

on the positive side of your 2 days of trying to get it set up - this topic will help many others in the future

Glad its sorted

aturnernffc wrote: ↑Tue Feb 05, 2019 5:38 pm
Again thanks to everyone who has inputted putting me in the right direction. I will let you know how the dreaded start up went.

Please do. I am sure it will be fine.

Hello all.

I started her up and she ran like a dream.

Only problem is I've notice the notch on the tensioner has moved and seems to of tightened slightly is this normal or do I need to strip the whole thing down again.

I might cry should that be the case

Hi all so drove the car about 4 miles and now there's oil leaking out every where? What could of I have done to cause this it's coming from the side I've been working on but not sure exactly


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