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Questions specifically about a Petrol powered Citroen C3 (usually engine or fuel related problems).
Forum rules One question per topic.
Petrol engine related faults, like injectors, error codes, overheating.
You can post more topics if necessary, but only one question per topic.
krisninnis wrote: ↑Sun Apr 14, 2019 9:19 am
Who ever had fitted them had not lubed them proper.
If you ever get the chance to take a photo of how it should be done or how it shouldn't be done, there is plenty of room for these photos that could help others to get it right first time. It's easy to attach photos to your topic, just follow How to Attach photos to the C3 forum
Will do as I feel peoples pain. The only thing thats got me through all the work and head scratching is seeing im not the only one thats having a nightmare. Really though i would just put an even amount of Vaseline if you have nothing else around the end of the injectors with the o ring side and repeat around the injector housing. I will take photos of this but its pretty straight forward.
Hi all. Update. Changed the coil pack after. Cars now not idling. Im waiting on a new accelerator pedal as im suspecting the throttle position sensor. If not im going to cut and solder the wires behind the glove box as advised earlier. If it works i will keep you posted as Im a bit dubious of this fix and cant seem to find a thread that says they have had success with this.
P2101 Fix by 'Delete the connector'
It is a very common problem and has been done by many. Well worth doing, not too technical and crosses off another potential problem from the list.
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Thanks for the reply. I will try this after installation of the new accelerator pedal if i have no success. Next option will be the breakers yard. If anyone has had success by soldering the wires please write in as i have yet to see a post saying that this was successful. Thanks
Soldered the wires together on the rhd extension. And changed the throttle pedal. Didnt do a thing. Still not idling. Ive booked it in monday to a garage. This has broken me. Will let you know if gets fixed.
I have heard off the garage and they have informed me that the cam belt has jumped a few teeth somehow. He said he has seen it before in other citroens. That explains everything. Checked the belt myself but didnt think of checking for the belt jumping a few teeth as ive never heard of this happening before. Maddening as i could of saved 300 pounds if i had seen this. Oh well hope this helps. Another check off your list before you start soldering wires in the glove box etc.
krisninnis wrote: ↑Mon May 27, 2019 10:31 am
I have heard off the garage and they have informed me that the cam belt has jumped a few teeth somehow. He said he has seen it before in other citroens. That explains everything. Checked the belt myself but didnt think of checking for the belt jumping a few teeth as ive never heard of this happening before. Maddening as i could of saved 300 pounds if i had seen this. Oh well hope this helps. Another check off your list before you start soldering wires in the glove box etc.
Another reason to have your cam belt changed at 80k miles on the TU3 engine
I know this is an old thread but it might help someone in the future.
I have issues with some of the posts on this thread and I hope I can clear things up.
The TU3JP engine has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor and not a MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor to determine the amount of air going into the engine.
I wont bore you with the technical details but engines that have a MAP sensor and a vacuum leak will tend to run rich. The leak makes the manifold pressure higher than it should be. The engine ECU thinks more air is going into the engine (the leak changes the pressure not the volume of air) so the ECU increases the amount of fuel. Consequently the engine runs rich. The engine ECU thinks the car is accelerating and over rides the o2 sensors and does not "trim" the fuel. Typically, vacuum leaks only appear to effect the idle but overall fuel economy and performance suffer.
Unfortunately there are no screen caps of the manifold pressure of this car with the engine running.
If you can not find any leaks in the manifold or throttle body then check the purge valve. Without power, it should be closed (blocked). It should only open when the car is at speed and not at idle. Remove the valve and plug the line going into the inlet manifold. See if the engine runs better. If that doesn't fix it, remove the oil vapor hose and block the small tube which is part of the inlet manifold. The small diameter plastic tube of the oil vapor line can crack and break.
In this case the poor engine ECU had lots of problems. Two internal unspecified ECU faults causing multiple erroneous results.
It's possible the ECU was driving the purge valve at idle. That would explain the rich idle mixture and why changing the valve made no difference but I think there was more to it than just that. For example, the engine going into closed loop mode with the coolant temp at 28 degrees!!??
