Where is the low speed radiator fan relay?

There are also fuses under the engine bay fuse box

Yes,
Thanks, i opened it and found the relay and fuses
But what should control these relays and fuses?

Thanks

vicolodo wrote:But what should control these relays and fuses?

Thanks for the pictures.

I don't know what the fuses protect and what the relays control.

But, if you have a fault, you can check each fuse and test every relay without having to know what they do.

If you find a faulty relay or a blown fuse, you can get a better understanding of what they control from what is not working in the car.

You can also try pulling fuses and see what stops working, do this one fuse at a time and you can build a 'map' of all the things that are protected by each fuse. The similar thing can be done with the relays.

I would guess at 3 relays and 3 fuses would indicate one fuse per relay which would show up in your 'map' of protected and controlled circuits.

Thank you
Yes, i have the problem that the engine radiator fan does not run,
And i am trying to check all the fuses, wires and relays that could control it.
The lexia returns fault p0692, but this is the same fault that is returned when the grey connector (three thin wires: two go to the fan and one to the fan relay) is disconnected.
I tested the voltage of the fan control wires, directly on the grey connector (on the female part, when disconnected, obviously).

they give me:

With connector disconnected :

+12v : the wire that goes to the relay
+12v : a wire that goes to the fan
0v: the other wire that goes to the fan

With connector connected:

+12v : the wire that goes to the relay
+0.1v : a wire that goes to the fan
0v: the other wire that goes to the fan

I tested this also during actuator test, and the voltage remain always the same

What i do not understand is this drop of voltage of one of the two control wires, when i connect it to the fan
And i do not understand why the other control wire gives always 0v, also during actuator test.

I suspect there is a fault in the ecu...
I read that P0692 could be due also to a faulty FCM...Front Control Module..what is it? It is the ecu?

Thanks!

vicolodo wrote:i do not understand why the other control wire gives always 0v, also during actuator test.

This could be the 0v line to provide a potential difference to the 12v line. Its often called 'earth' on a car. So, 0v line for the control signal?

vicolodo wrote:What i do not understand is this drop of voltage of one of the two control wires, when i connect it to the fan

It could be a very low resistance to an 'earth' or 0v line. A blown up or melted component on the control side in the fan could give a very low resistance to earth.

Ok thank you,
So if i understand well,
I need to try a new fan and see what happens
And before that perhaps i can start testing the resistence that i have between the '0v control wire' and the battery earth: if they are connected, i should measure a 0 resistence

EDIT:
i asked to a garage owner,
he told me that the two thin control wires, in normal conditions, should give this:

wire 1:
+12V when the key is turned
wire 2 (the one where i read 0 with the multimeter):
control command: to see the command is needed an oscilloscope, the multimeter is not enought

He suggested me to change the fan.

Do you agree with him, or you have different informations?

Thank you

UPDATE:

I changed the fan, as suggested, and it works,
i tried it with with actuator test
Lexia has cancelled the error.

hello,

I just joined, and I want send a big THANK YOU to all who contributed to this thread.
It has been INVALUABLE in patching an overheating problem that 2 mechanics could not fix after replacing 2 sensors (200 wasted euros).

Every now and then my cooling fan decides to stop. It Could run 2/3/4 days straight and then go on strike the morning after.
I could not isolate a specific condition that causes it to do so, but when it did I managed to make it spin again by unplugging and reconnecting either the fan relay switch or the speed control wires. (relay was hot)

To make this "reset" easier I added a switch beside the steering wheel (pic below).
It s just an extension of the speed control neutral wire (the white one), to quickly open and close the circuit.

It all points to some abnormal current absorption, likely the fan motor. But I am not sure 100% (A/C also shares the fan control circuit..)
Any opinion appreciated.
cheers,
Dan

Hello Dan,

Thanks for your solution

dan wrote:Any opinion appreciated.
cheers,
Dan

Changing the fan could be your option, but they are not cheap and the switch you fitted may be enough to out last the life of the car