Picasso 1.6 HDI head gasket change

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Mon Dec 16, 2019 12:53 am ...............
Genuinely, good luck with it and please let us know how you get on.

as anther short update....
I have decided to have an operation and have a few extra joints put in my fingers....

refitted the alternator (bloody hell that is tight)... nice touch the little bit of metal missing to clear the pulley, to allow you just enough room to line things up... and once you have encountered those cone bolts and sleeves you will always remember how they work....
so managed to get the AC pump and alternator back in place....
and yes I forgot to bolt the little bracket supporting the one cable to the AC pump... so now i am a master of fitting those...

Next plan is to put the aux belt tensioner back with a new belt....
double check all elec connections are in place....
Fire it up and let it run up to temp....

One thing I have noticed that plastic pipe that goes from the rad to the header tank........
the clip on the rad does not seem to lock back in place and it seems to need a hell of a lot of force to latch it...
I have been worried about cracking the rad, any easy technique to get to to latch correctly?

Will be playing plastics next......

I was always put off these modern Pug/Citroen's... but I guess if you have stripped one and put it back together the next would be easier....
I can see that a specialist or independent garage that has worked on one or two of these would know all the quick ways...
I know that the time to remove the front plastics and such makes life a lot easier,then dropping the AC pump (only 3 bolts) make the alternator removal much simpler.... also have read removing the engine mount would give you a little more wiggle room....
I guess a lot of people are put off by so much stripping down....
Knowing how to undo the elec connectors is a must... I paint blob in different colours (in advance) those I disconnect that makes putting them back easier....

I do tend to take a lot of photos before and during strip down, that is one advantage of the digital ages as I simply delete them afterwards..., and always screw bolts back in if possible... if not a bit of masking tape and a pen to write where they are from....

Luckily not in a rush to do this, as it was FOC hence it taking a while as I fit it in as and when so a learning exercise too....
so hopefully others may benefit from my findings.....

well...

latest progress... been a while, but mainly because I have lots going on....

sort of got most of the bits back on...had to sort a few extras those arms to the front seem to be easily rusted.. so had to get some more and ensure they were better painted etc...
90% of the stuff went back fairly easily.. and now think having to do this all again t would be much easier...
the Alternator was still a bit of a pig.....
connected intercooler, all elec connectors to the fan and everything else...
filled up, bled everything possible...
fired up...
Had an Engine Temp warning message.....

engine ran fine, continued to bleed and made sure all air was out...
Engine ranb fine and Rad got hot and so did all the hoses etc ...

so turned off and left for a while...
then started up again...
again Msg "Engine Fault" which disappeared...

so without plugging in any diagnostics box anything I should look for?
Engine got fairly warm, could tell when the thermostat opened...
no fan kicked in... don't think it was that hot though...

TIA
P.

update to my update....
ran the engine and topped up several times previously... bleeding the system as well

Left it for a day or so....

Came back coolant had dropped a little so added a bit more ....

Fired up no warnings...
so [presume as there would have been air there may have been some error generated by the temp sender in the thermostat housing not having coolant to start with...

They are not that complicated... but a lot of effort to do things...

I have noted that the air-con pump does not seem to kick in... or at least the air-con does not work... leave that for another time....

Well...
It is all back together... took a while, but only did bits as and when....
a few other things along the way.. the lower nearside support arm was rusted through.. how bad these parts rust but, but simple to replace and give a good coat of descent paint....

Everything seems fine and have ran it several times for 1-2 hours and no leaks...
Never actually found the source, but I would guess the thermostat housing....

Changed all the filters oil belts etc while I was at it...

MOT next then will run it for a few months and the do a cam belt change.....

Bigvtwin996 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 15, 2020 2:19 pm do a cam belt change.....

Don't you hate the whole chicken or the egg thing? Could have changed the belt during the fault finding phase, while the engine was apart but if the engine failed, that would have waisted time and money.

I am getting my 2nd C3 1.4i(KFV) back on the road but I am replacing timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs etc on spec. The engine was not previously running correctly but I'm gambling that I've found the root cause (purge valve) and I'm just getting it back to a know state. I've invested a lot of time and effort as you should know. The bloody thing better run! LOL!

While diesels aren't my forte, aircon is. Post when you are ready and I'll try and give you a hand (if you need it).

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Mon Mar 16, 2020 5:03 am

Bigvtwin996 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 15, 2020 2:19 pm do a cam belt change.....

Don't you hate the whole chicken or the egg thing? Could have changed the belt during the fault finding phase, while the engine was apart but if the engine failed, that would have waisted time and money.

I am getting my 2nd C3 1.4i(KFV) back on the road but I am replacing timing belt, water pump, thermostat, spark plugs etc on spec. The engine was not previously running correctly but I'm gambling that I've found the root cause (purge valve) and I'm just getting it back to a know state. I've invested a lot of time and effort as you should know. The bloody thing better run! LOL!

While diesels aren't my forte, aircon is. Post when you are ready and I'll try and give you a hand (if you need it).

It was annoying that there was nothing obvious....
took it slowly as I used this to acquaint myself with these modern engines.....
the thought was there to change the belts at the same time, but as you point out could have ended up with a non running engine or worse and not sure what was the issue, so whilst it is doing some things twice... all it costs in time and as the car was FOC... nothing lost....

yep belt, tensioner and water pump will be swapped... so again if there is a leak I know where it is from and why....
seems straightforward, locking stuff off etc..
Can you undo the crank bolt by putting a spanner on and starting the engine (well turning it over)?
a good source for locking pins? even though probably only to be used once or twice, probably better than drills etc?
Will post when I's on the road and looking at aircon.. think the front aircon rad thing has seen better days...

I do like my Pug/Citroen's.. but they can be daunting to start with.
May buy a 404 pickup next... Emission Zone exempt and can run on chip fat

I'm sorry but I'm not that familiar with diesels but if your engine is an 8 valve I cant see it being radically different to the petrol engine. At least as far as the cam belt is concerned.

The biggest pain is pinning the flywheel. The pin is inserted into the engine block gearbox flange, behind the oil filter, which requires removal of the oil filter housing. Also there is webbing on the wall of the block casting, limiting the length of the pin and access to the hole. You might know this already. Again I'm not sure about the diesels but the pins for the petrol are 8mm in diameter for the camshaft sprocket and 6mm to lock the Fly wheel. You can buy M6 threaded rod and 8mm linchpins ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linchpin ) from a hardware store for very little money. Solid 6mm rod is a bit harder to find and tends to be more expensive? The 8mm linchpin fits perfectly into the cylinder head through the cam sprocket and looks like it was made for the job (LOL) but you will need to cut the M6 rod into a length of approximately 3inches (or about 7cm). The end that goes into the flywheel has to be about an inch (or 2.5cm) long. If you make this part too long it will foul on the webbing, too short and it wont reach the notch in the flywheel. 6mm linchpins (you can buy linchpins in several sizes) are too long and the loop is too big. You could modify the 6mm linchpin but fabricating the pin out of the rod is easier. Bend the rod at between 45 and 90 degrees at the 1" mark from one end, the angle is not critical.
You can make a clamp to hold the cam belt onto the crankshaft sprocket (optional but handy) from a 50mm downpipe clamp. You know, those clamps that hold the downpipe from the guttering on your house to the wall.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-200mm-Plum ... DH7ckd_JSQ
It will hold the cam belt onto the crankshaft sprocket while you work the belt around the other sprockets. Again very cheap and you will find them at hardware stores too.

Bigvtwin996 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 17, 2020 9:17 pm Can you undo the crank bolt by putting a spanner on and starting the engine (well turning it over)?

Ha Ha. Um, I have a 1984 Ford Meteor (Mazda 323) that is my work horse. I recently changed the cylinder head gasket on it because of oil leaking to the outside of the engine. Anyway the wheel nut wrench supplied with the cars tool kit happens to be the same size as the crank pulley hub retaining bolt ( the crank bolt that I assume you are talking about). I used the wrench to turn the engine over by hand to check the timing chain and etc.
When I thought I had completed the operation I started the engine. Immediately there was a loud whoomp but the engine ran smoothly and everything else seemed OK. I stopped the engine and investigated the area the noise came from. Couldn't see anything amiss until I saw a hole in the centre if the crankshaft pulley. The crank bolt was missing!! For a nanosecond I realized what had happened and thought I had sheared the bolt off. I had left the wrench on the bolt and then started the engine!! Fortunately the bolt had simply undone and fallen out.
While I don't recommend it, it will undo the bolt.
I'm lucky, I borrow my younger son's battery impact wrench. If you can afford it and you are serious about working on your car it is really, really, really, really, really, handy.

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Wed Mar 18, 2020 12:27 am
While I don't recommend it, it will undo the bolt.

Yep the 8v diesel.. I think most manufacturers petrol/diesel engines are similar

spanner on the crank pulley nut .......

Do it all the time on the old 1.9 and 2.0 Peugeot/Citroen engines to undo them....
only needs a little spin to break the hold.... just make sure it is a good spanner
will have a look at the 1.6 when the weather picks up...

Used a broken drill to hold the aux belt tensioner in position and was surprised to see that it had bent over time....
but I guess that was because it was under tension, so just for locking the pulleys/crank in place any old rod the right diameter would suffice... always used drills in the past as they come in nice sizes, but I guess needing a bent rod, I could get my mate to run some down to 6mm and then bend that

So to lock the crank to keep everything in place means grovelling under the car.... doh!!!
but then again I can strip the front off again, all the bolts are free and covered in copperslip

like the tip for holding the belt on the crank pulley.....

OK, I have checked my resources and found the 8 valve diesel is sufficiently different to the petrol model to render virtually useless most of what I have said.

I have PM'd you part of a manual that I hope you find useful. Please let me know if it doesn't come through.

I think there is an error in the procedure "remove tool[3]". I think that tool might be used in some other procedure and it might mean "check that that tool has been removed before proceeding".

Seems you can do most of the work from the drivers side wheel arch but you will have a better idea than I.