Oil Leak dripping off of the bell housing and gearbox oil sump

C3CAR wrote: The copper injector seals don't really seal any fuel as such. They seal the combustion chamber, which admittedly contains some fuel, its mostly air or exhaust gasses.

The gold pipes seal only diesel fuel under very high pressure. Citroen say new pipes should be fitted each time they are removed (don't reuse the pipe). Why? The pipe seals to the shape of the injector mating face and it can be tricky to get it to seal twice. In practice everyone will re-use the pipe unless it leaks, then they change them

The nuts on the gold pipe have a specified torque which can be tricky to measure without the right tools (crows foot) and maths to do the crows foot conversion. You could check they are torqued correctly?

samstagmoonyham wrote:Ok, i will need to buy some crows foot spanners then i guess, thats not really a problem, how do i do the conversion once i have the crows foot spanners?

user1234 wrote:I'm wondering, and if anyone thinks this is a bad idea, please say so, because I'm not sure.

But if you're already considering replacing the pipes, before doing so, try slightly over-torquing the pipes to the injectors.
Good chance that may seal the connections, giving you a chance to check if that was the cause without replacing the whole line.

user1234 wrote:You won't really need an accurate torque wrench either, since you'll crank a set amount of degrees on all of them (say a sixteenth of a turn or less).

C3CAR wrote:

user1234 wrote:I'm wondering, and if anyone thinks this is a bad idea, please say so, because I'm not sure.

But if you're already considering replacing the pipes, before doing so, try slightly over-torquing the pipes to the injectors.
Good chance that may seal the connections, giving you a chance to check if that was the cause without replacing the whole line.

Its got to be worth a try, as you say the injectors are quite tough so should survive.

user1234 wrote:You won't really need an accurate torque wrench either, since you'll crank a set amount of degrees on all of them (say a sixteenth of a turn or less).

But if you have a torque wrench anyway (which is a 'must have' tool for the mechanical C3 parts in my opinion) then use it. If you don't get it right you may under torque leading to a leak or over torque leading to damage of the gold pipe and you get another leak.

A occasional, DIYers torque wrench doesn't need to be expensive, have a look at this one for example. Its useful for tightening wheel nuts, suspension and injector, but not up to the job of the front hub nut.

You can find a crows foot here (amazon)