Lack of power 1.4hdi 16v

Hi,
I am hoping someone will be able to help!
I have a lack of power as though the turbo is not kicking in. I have no errors on dash.
I have checked an cleaned MAF. I disconnected it and it makes no difference at all. There are no damage or blockage in air delivery system.
I have checked the turbo, and there is no play in the shaft and it spins freely.
I have checked the EGR valve - it is not blocked and the diaphragm seems to move reasonable freely when manually actuated.
I don't have a way of checking pressure but I there is no discernable vacuum on EGR valve or turbo wategate vacuum hoses.
I am thinking vacuum electrovalves but I'd like a thumbs up or otherwise before I fork out £90 for one! Am I correct in thinking I don't really need one for the EGR valve? (BTW, are they the same as on the 8v 1.4hdi? A local scrapyard reckons he has 2 for that engine...)
Also, is there a way of checking the fuel filter other than replacing it ona trial and error basis?
Thanks very much in advance for any help I get!

Hello

doferdude wrote: ↑Mon Aug 19, 2019 8:00 pm I don't have a way of checking pressure but I there is no discernible vacuum on EGR valve or turbo waste gate vacuum hoses.

Easy enough to check and well worth the time, buy this Gunsons lo gauge and you can test the vacuum system for leaks and test the vacuum pump for 800mb of vacuum delivered.

Don't go changing bits on a whim, that gets very expensive.

Test the vacuum first.

Test point for vacuum system check. Pull off the blanking plug arrowed and a attach the lo gauge

check for vacuum, and vacuum leakage

doferdude wrote: ↑Mon Aug 19, 2019 8:00 pm I have a lack of power as though the turbo is not kicking in. I have no errors on dash.

The vac supply pipe can become detached (at the distribution block) and you get these symptoms.

You can remove the air filter box and look behind the engine for a disconnected hose. This could be your problem.

That's great.
I will look for a disconnected hose when i can get the car on some ramps next - they are very hard to follow/see!
With regards to the vacuum testing - the wastegate doesn't move when revved but it is quite easy to move by hand.
Also, there is no... and I mean NO suction from the pipe going into the wastegate or EGR valve - not even enough to suck a loose ants pube, do I really need to go out and buy a tester?
What sort of readings would I expect from this gauge?
I will take your response as final on this!
Thanks either way!

You are looking for at least 800mb from the vacuum pump but the car will run with 700mb or maybe even less

No vacuum sounds like a pipe is off or has a hole. But pumps do fail too.

The tester is cheap compared to a vacuum pump cost. You could even sell the tester after using it if there is no need to keep it.

Haynes says '500mb' as a minimum for the vacuum pump to be operational.

I just wanted to offer up my sincere gratitude for the help you've given me here.
I tested the vacuum pump and at the blanked off testing point and was getting plenty of suction.
As it got dark this evening I started to install the 2nd hand electrovalve that I bought off ebay for 16.99. I couldn't remove the old electrovalve because i couldn't see what I was doing so I removed the vacuum pipes and electrical connection and moved them over to the new valve and then tied the new valve secure with a shoe lace...
I'll have another look when it's a bit lighter!
The car has more power than I can ever remember it so thanks again for all the help!
Ash...
Oh P.S. I blanked the EGR valve for good measure...

I recently had the starter motor go on mine. The garage did the work and when I took it back, the power was significantly down, along with the fuel economy.

Taking it back they had a look and found the distribution box just under the starter had had a pipe snapped off. They tried denying it was related, but I persevered with them until they said they'd change it out of "good will"

Guess what the car was back to normal after. It's worth checking out that vaccum system.