hdi 8 valve injector seal replacement help

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My Name: allanmc

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Posts: 68
Joined: Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:13 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2004 (04)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 50
Trim Level: Rhythm
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: Yes
Location: scotland
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Thanks, to tell you the truth I am unsure but I think it's nuts,I hope to find out tomorrow
cheers
Allan
My Name: Ploddit

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Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:42 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2004 (54)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No

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Did all four recently.
8v is a bolt which bolts through a fork to hold down the injectors, torque is 20? Plus 90 degs iirc.
Only thing to know are the two lower rear bolts that hold the airbox/inlet easy to miss, and from experience when 're assembling put them on first to ensure the airbox is low enough.
My Name: danton

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Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2016 5:54 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2005 (05)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: LHD (Europe)

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Hi,

I hear this chuffing sound from my engine. Pretty sure its a leak from the injections. I must have this leak for months. I remember this sound from long time ago but never minded before.

I wanted to ask
1. What spares should I buy for the injection seals before going to the garage? I see its some washers, seals, a plastic guide (for vibrations?)
2. How many hours of work do you think this will take? I must calculate the cost of the repair. If its too much maybe its better I get rid of the car
3. Is it smart to change timing belt, water pump or anything else along with this repair? Because the labor then will be much the same..
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My Name: Arfur Dent

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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 3:47 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2002 (52)
Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 100000
Trim Level: Exclusive
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
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danton wrote:1. What spares should I buy for the injection seals before going to the garage? I see its some washers, seals, a plastic guide (for vibrations?)
The seals or copper washers or fire seals or whatever you want to call them, they are the same thing. If you want to spend money, buy the fork and the nuts/bolts that hold the injector down.
danton wrote:2. How many hours of work do you think this will take? I must calculate the cost of the repair. If its too much maybe its better I get rid of the car
Well, why get rid of a car that works well enough for you and what will it be worth for a buyer if they hear that noise? A couple of hours will do all four seals.
danton wrote:3. Is it smart to change timing belt, water pump or anything else along with this repair? Because the labor then will be much the same..
No, there is no connection between the injector seals and the timing belt and the water pump. You should do the timing belt (and TVD, water pump etc) when the cam belt is due for renewal - if you don't want to pass the car on because of the cost.
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My Name: danton

Member
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2016 5:54 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2005 (05)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: LHD (Europe)

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Thanks for helping.

I really like this car, even if its a cheap one. As a mechanical engineer I am impressed by the technology this cheap engine has. But they are phasing out diesel cars here in Norway. So I must be careful on what I spend.

These are what I find as consumables for repairing the injection leak:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-INJECTOR ... 2113324325

Can you confirm that all these pieces are necessary and are compatible for for DV4 F8HZ. How can I be sure which injector my car engine uses?
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My Name: Arfur Dent

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Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2002 (52)
Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 100000
Trim Level: Exclusive
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
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Necessary? The only thing that is necessary is to make a better seal between the injector, the copper washer and the injector seat. You could do this by resurfacing the copper seal and reusing it... But it may pay, while you have parts removed to check or just change parts that are in reach or already removed.

If you don't change parts that are worn you may have to change them later. It's your choice based on your circumstances.

If you want to ensure parts that you are ordering are right, you will see it's the responsibility of you and the vendor creating a contract for suitability. You need to confirm with the vendor the parts they are selling you will be what you need. Usually checked by registration number, vintage number, engine number or just model and year.
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My Name: biorapter2321

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Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 8:13 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2004 (54)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: NA
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 diesel (70 PS)
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I have the same chuffing noise on my 2005 diesel. Is it a good idea to try and simply tighten the in injector bolts to solve the problem? I'm thinking they've caused the problem in the first place being worked loose by the engine heat and vibrations, or maybe now the injector seal is contaminated by dirt ingress from the cylinder? Are there any other tips to do with the injector if it has to be removed? I'm thinking I would just try and resurface the washer on sandpaper and clean the seats before replacing, is this doable without the specially made Citroen tools?
Many thanks in advance.
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My Name: C3driver52

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Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2003 (03)
Engine Size: 1.4 i
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 79984
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
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maybe now the injector seal is contaminated by dirt ingress from the cylinder?
Hi,

I would say yes, it's contaminated now and over tightening will put more stress on bits that shouldn't have it.

Best to strip it out and do the job properly.
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My Name: C3driver52

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Posts: 1938
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2003 (03)
Engine Size: 1.4 i
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 79984
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
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I would just try and resurface the washer on sandpaper and clean the seats before replacing, is this doable without the specially made Citroen tools?
Buy a new copper crush washer, they are cheap and not worth sanding down and are designed to be replaced.

The other parts just need cleaning.

No Citroen special tools required
My Name: biorapter2321

Contributor
Posts: 8
Joined: Wed Mar 10, 2021 8:13 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2004 (54)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: NA
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 diesel (70 PS)
Has thanked: 1 time

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Thanks for the hint copper washers it is. One other thing, do you think i'd get away with just reusing the bolts, i've heard they are the torque to yield type and could break
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