has lack of power at times on 1.4 HDi 16v
Forum rules
One question per topic.
No Gearbox questions
Diesel engine related problems
Think: Diesel engine, diesel fuel system, diesel injectors and glow plugs
One question per topic.
No Gearbox questions
Diesel engine related problems
Think: Diesel engine, diesel fuel system, diesel injectors and glow plugs
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- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2012 4:30 pm
Chris. Your a star. Thanks very much. Will be in touch when I have done it. Regards ken
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- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2012 11:16 am
Just thought I would add the following based on recent experience.
My vehicle, 2005 XTR,60,000 miles started to demonstrate a re occurrence of this issue. I had previously tested and\or replaced the vacuum electrovalve, piping and checked the operation of the waste gate actuator, all associated wiring and disabled the EGR system.
No errors were logged in the ECUs on the vehicle.
Tested all the above again and everything was okay.
Decided to work through the various systems and eventually came back to the throttle pedal. As this engine is fly by wire I thought this was worth checking so I removed this pedal assembly, 3 x 10mm bolts and one electrical connector, five mins work.
As I did not have a spare to hand I disassembled what I could carefully without breaking it!
Then proceeded to clean the entire electrical assembly of the pedal with a good quality electrical component cleaner.
The difference is very noticeable, no lag or hesitation and much smoother throughout the rev range.
So may be another thing to check if you experience this issue!
Chris
My vehicle, 2005 XTR,60,000 miles started to demonstrate a re occurrence of this issue. I had previously tested and\or replaced the vacuum electrovalve, piping and checked the operation of the waste gate actuator, all associated wiring and disabled the EGR system.
No errors were logged in the ECUs on the vehicle.
Tested all the above again and everything was okay.
Decided to work through the various systems and eventually came back to the throttle pedal. As this engine is fly by wire I thought this was worth checking so I removed this pedal assembly, 3 x 10mm bolts and one electrical connector, five mins work.
As I did not have a spare to hand I disassembled what I could carefully without breaking it!
Then proceeded to clean the entire electrical assembly of the pedal with a good quality electrical component cleaner.
The difference is very noticeable, no lag or hesitation and much smoother throughout the rev range.
So may be another thing to check if you experience this issue!
Chris
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- Posts: 4
- Joined: Thu May 17, 2012 8:11 am
Hi Everyone,
Finding this thread has been a huge help. Ken, I am suffering with the same problem on my identical 02 C3 Diesel.
Only in the last 3-4 days has the problem arisen whereby the car just doesn't want to try that hard (mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear) and then has a sudden burst of power. I've also noticed that the car struggles at 48mph in 5th gear whereas before she would bumble along happily until speeds as low as 40mph in the same gear.
Because I refuse to pay for something if I can do it myself I thought I might get some advice on here and then I found this thread. Ken, I was wondering if Chris's solution had worked and if not then what did you do next.
Thanks guys, you've been a huge help so far!
Steven
Finding this thread has been a huge help. Ken, I am suffering with the same problem on my identical 02 C3 Diesel.
Only in the last 3-4 days has the problem arisen whereby the car just doesn't want to try that hard (mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear) and then has a sudden burst of power. I've also noticed that the car struggles at 48mph in 5th gear whereas before she would bumble along happily until speeds as low as 40mph in the same gear.
Because I refuse to pay for something if I can do it myself I thought I might get some advice on here and then I found this thread. Ken, I was wondering if Chris's solution had worked and if not then what did you do next.
Thanks guys, you've been a huge help so far!
Steven
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- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sun Apr 08, 2012 11:21 pm
Hi I am having a similar problem. Not had the car long. Found that the black box, vac reservoir, was full of diesel. Dont know how. Anyway have changed it and some of the pipework. One new pipe I have that connects from the bottom of vac res and goes to the servo line that connects with the vacuum pump - this is different to what was fitted to my car. The one existing was a single end and was fitted into a t on the servo line. The new pipe has a tee on the end? How does this plumb in to the feed line?
Any help appreciated guys
Many thanks
Any help appreciated guys
Many thanks
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- Posts: 2012
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 79984
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 146 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
Hi Hope_it_works_out
I don't suggest trying to cobble together bits that are not designed for your configuration for any long term reliability, getting the right parts will be for the best in the long run.
If the brake servo feed is involved, modifications from citroens design may lead to a safety issues (braking) and are very unlikely to be covered by your insurance company.
The other option is that someone has got to the car before you and put the wrong parts on, in which case you need to reverse all the wrong work. But this is unlikely.
If the bits you purchased don't fit your car, it sounds like you have the wrong parts. There are various engine configurations on the Citroen C3 leading to confusion on the multitude of parts options.Hope_it_works_out wrote: this is different to what was fitted to my car
I don't suggest trying to cobble together bits that are not designed for your configuration for any long term reliability, getting the right parts will be for the best in the long run.
If the brake servo feed is involved, modifications from citroens design may lead to a safety issues (braking) and are very unlikely to be covered by your insurance company.
The other option is that someone has got to the car before you and put the wrong parts on, in which case you need to reverse all the wrong work. But this is unlikely.
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- Posts: 2743
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 198 times
- Been thanked: 106 times
The older C3 1.4 HDi comes in two flavours one with 8 valves and one with 16 valves.
The 16v version has a variable vane turbocharger which is controlled by the vacuum system, where the 8v version has a fixed vane turbocharger not requiring the extra vacuum connection.
The difference between the two systems are shown in the pictures below, note the extra electro-valve which appears in the previous posts of this topic for the 16 valve engine.
16V

8V
The 16v version has a variable vane turbocharger which is controlled by the vacuum system, where the 8v version has a fixed vane turbocharger not requiring the extra vacuum connection.
The difference between the two systems are shown in the pictures below, note the extra electro-valve which appears in the previous posts of this topic for the 16 valve engine.
16V
8V
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- Posts: 89
- Joined: Wed Oct 24, 2012 10:42 am
- Been thanked: 1 time
Just a shot in the dark here,
but, if the two valves are identical and the vacuum pipes are routed correctly, but then, if the electrical connetctors were accidently swapped, the signals would still provoke a response from the EGR and Turbo Vane valves, but not the right response, ie the EGR would push loads of exhaust in when the turbo should be boosting, say 1750rpm, causing it to stall, and the Turbo would boost massively at about 3,500rpm, presumably the revs at which the engine requires the cooling effect from the de-oxygenated exhaust gasses. ?
This is exactly what I appear to be suffering from!!!! one plug is blue and the other plain black, currently the blue one is on the EGR the black to the turbo. Took her a run and got P0402 and P1351, cleared the lights but still behaves as described above, I will investigate further.
but, if the two valves are identical and the vacuum pipes are routed correctly, but then, if the electrical connetctors were accidently swapped, the signals would still provoke a response from the EGR and Turbo Vane valves, but not the right response, ie the EGR would push loads of exhaust in when the turbo should be boosting, say 1750rpm, causing it to stall, and the Turbo would boost massively at about 3,500rpm, presumably the revs at which the engine requires the cooling effect from the de-oxygenated exhaust gasses. ?
This is exactly what I appear to be suffering from!!!! one plug is blue and the other plain black, currently the blue one is on the EGR the black to the turbo. Took her a run and got P0402 and P1351, cleared the lights but still behaves as described above, I will investigate further.

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- Posts: 2012
- Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2011 7:40 pm
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (03)
- Engine Size: 1.4 i
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 79984
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Has thanked: 146 times
- Been thanked: 78 times
On my diagram, the
EGR Electrovalve plug is Blue (with wire numbers 1373 - white, 1337B - Blue)
and the
Turbo Electrovalve plug is Grey (with wire numbers 1360 - white, 1271 - Red)
(on the 16v 1.4 HDi delphi setup)
If you are getting bogged down in the EGR, the easiest thing to do is just blank it off with one of these EGR Blanking plate you can get on eBay
The EGR is a pollution reducing measure but when its not working can cause a problem with performance. Blanking it off temporarily is a quick way to prove/disprove it. The blanking plate is easy to fit and easy to remove. With it blanked off, you only need to think about the turbo side of it.
EGR Electrovalve plug is Blue (with wire numbers 1373 - white, 1337B - Blue)
and the
Turbo Electrovalve plug is Grey (with wire numbers 1360 - white, 1271 - Red)
(on the 16v 1.4 HDi delphi setup)
If you are getting bogged down in the EGR, the easiest thing to do is just blank it off with one of these EGR Blanking plate you can get on eBay
The EGR is a pollution reducing measure but when its not working can cause a problem with performance. Blanking it off temporarily is a quick way to prove/disprove it. The blanking plate is easy to fit and easy to remove. With it blanked off, you only need to think about the turbo side of it.
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- Posts: 1
- Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2016 11:21 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 130000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Hi . My C3 1.4 16v hdi. Is having turbo issues . It drops off boost then back on . It's also issuing black smoke under accelleration as well . It's been serviced in the last 1000 miles as well . Could it be the valve described above that is causing the problem . Thanks in advance .
-
- Posts: 2743
- Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2002 (02)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 140000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
- Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
- Has thanked: 198 times
- Been thanked: 106 times
Hi Mart66Mart66 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 07, 2016 1:41 pm Hi . My C3 1.4 16v hdi. Is having turbo issues . It drops off boost then back on . It's also issuing black smoke under accelleration as well . It's been serviced in the last 1000 miles as well . Could it be the valve described above that is causing the problem . Thanks in advance .
Fit the This EGR blanking plate and test the car, then report back your findings

EGR location on a Citroen C3
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