Shock absorbers - which ones to buy?

Hello there i must change shock absorbers on my citroen c3 2004 8v my car has 138000klm .. what brand should i take . I use my car on normal conditions.. thank you for your time

Adreas90 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 03, 2019 7:20 pm Hello there i must change shock absorbers on my citroen c3 2004 8v my car has 138000klm .. what brand should i take . I use my car on normal conditions.. thank you for your time

Hi

I used KYB dampers on my last suspension rebuild. The same dampers are used for all models over 2002 - 2009

But you should also check the springs and top mounts because on those miles it is more than just dampers that wear out.

Do both sides at the same time, dampers come in Left and Right handed so fit them to the correct side of the car.

Thank you..
KYB are soft or hard??

Adreas90 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 03, 2019 8:14 pm Thank you..
KYB are soft or hard??

They are just to OEM standard. Perfect for driving on the UK roads.

I wouldn't describe them as neither hard or soft.

Can you send me a link for kyb.
What your opinion about sachs??if a cant find kyb im from greece..

Adreas90 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 03, 2019 8:34 pm Can you send me a link for kyb.
What your opinion about sachs??if a cant find kyb im from greece..

I haven't use sachs, but they are an OEM manufacturer so I don't see any problems if you go for their 'standard' range.

KYB - kybaia Europe

I don't know anything about distributors in Greece.

Hello guys I finaly take this parts

Are you doing the fronts? If so, have fun (I'm being sarcastic).
I'm doing the upper mounts ATM and it's a pain in the a$$!
Every other car I have owned has been Japanese and the shock struts are held on by two bolts and the shocks just come strait off.
This clamp arrangement and front suspension dynamics make it ... er... a challenge to get the shocks off. The drive shaft knocks on the control arm mount before the shock comes all the way out of the knuckle. The twat who worked on the car before me put the ball joint on the top of the control arm instead of the bottom, meaning the ball joint wont separate from the control arm because the screw is too long, the control arm wont push down far enough. Catch 22. You have to remove the ball joint from the arm to get the middle screw out!! You can remove the ball joint from the knuckle but again you have to hyper extend the control arm to get it out. Not good for the control arm bushes. More on that later.
So far I have bought two specialty tools just to get the strut out of the knuckle! A tool to expand the jaws of the clamp and an "on car" spring compressor.
While you are there, inspect the control arm bushes, you might be in for more surprises and you don't want to go through all of this again to replace them.

Hello there my mechanic did the job and i saw a lot of defernce of my old sock absorbers i have changed top mounts and the rear sock absorbers 6 months ago .. now the only think i myst change is the stering rack