Power steering rack needs replacement

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My Name: iain12321

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Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:20 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2005 (05)
Engine Size: 1.1
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 35000
Trim Level: Desire
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No

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Just had a look for the label with the RPO code on it but I cant see it and I looked all round the door and frame using mirror as some parts are hard to see as car is close to a wall. Is the code anywhere else? (I locked it before I disconnected the battery, so I can't open any doors other that the drivers.)
Steering rack.jpg
Took a picture of the cracked rack. quite badly corroded inside so guessing its been broken for a while.
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My Name: C3driver52

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Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2003 (03)
Engine Size: 1.4 i
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 79984
Trim Level: VTR+
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
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iain12321 wrote:Is the code anywhere else? (I locked it before I disconnected the battery, so I can't open any doors other that the drivers.)
Its in the passenger door shut, by the hinges. You need to open the door quite a way to see it. It doesn't appear in any other location.
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My Name: C3CAR

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Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2002 (02)
Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 140000
Trim Level: Exclusive
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
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iain12321 wrote:Took a picture of the cracked rack. quite badly corroded inside so guessing its been broken for a while.
That is a fair bit of damage, I wonder why it broke?
iain12321 wrote:Is the code anywhere else?
The RPO is a code of the date of manufacture. If you know the build date, or close (e.g. it would have been made before its first date of registration), you can see how close or which band of those RPO dates you fall into. This may be enough to work out which years of cars to look at for a donor rack.
My Name: iain12321

Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:20 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2005 (05)
Engine Size: 1.1
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 35000
Trim Level: Desire
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No

Post

Just discovered that my partner is heavily pregnant so that put fixing the c3 on a back burner. Having to sell my much loved Rav4 as I need something with 6 seats, current bet is a Fiat Ulysse with loads of electrical faults. Had a Multipla a couple cars back and can honestly said it was the funniest car I have ever owned, if you went though a big puddle the water came out the air vents.


Anyway,
I worked out the RPO, 10355CA means a production date of 16 march 2005. Found the calculator link on the forum. This meant it put it the final groups- steering racks. so I came to the conclusion if I bought a steering rack of a car newer than mine I might have a chance of it working.

Looked on ebay and found a steering rack off a 2006 1.4 (item: 331196383910)

Decided for £45 it was worth a punt so ill find out if it fits my motor/torque sensor when I get it.

Is there anything else I need to order like replacement tie rod ends, one use nuts?
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Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2002 (52)
Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 100000
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Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
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iain12321 wrote: Is there anything else I need to order like replacement tie rod ends, one use nuts?
New track rod ends my be worth investigating, as it will save having to do them later but it depends on your budget. Fitting new 'one use' nuts is always a good idea when doing steering and suspension. Your friendly citroen dealer can help you with the right ones you need when replacing the rack.



4010F7 (number required - 2) HEXAGONAL NUT 12X150 holds the rack in place.
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My Name: iain12321

Member
Posts: 4
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2014 3:20 pm
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2005 (05)
Engine Size: 1.1
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 35000
Trim Level: Desire
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No

Post

Someone PM'd me about how i replaced it so i thought i would share incase anyone else is interested.

I went by the haynes manual and it worked ok.

Set steering wheel straight ahead.
jack up front of car as high as you can get it. Use axle stands (but not on subframe).

Disconnect battery, remove air-box, to get into fuse box to remove cabling for the steering rack(three plugs from memory).
Disconnect bolts at bottom of steering column(from inside the footwell).
take apart exhaust at flexi joint(there are bolts with springs on them) As front subframe needs dropped a good few inches. Plug both ends to make sure nothing gets inside exhaust.

wheels off, separate steering rack ball joints from the hubs.

loosen the bolts securing the steering rack. there is only two or three.
support engine/frame with jack(i don't remember exactly), loosen the bolts securing the subframe(i took them all the way out then put them back in a few threads.) lower engine so it rests on the bolts.

Make sure it is stable and support engine/frame if necessary. Steering rack comes out through the passenger wheel well.


Reassembly is basically the reverse.
I reconnected the steering wheel column before i fully did up subframe.
I ran a tap down the threaded holes as some were a bit corroded and I used new bolts for subframe and steering rack. Torqued everything up as per the book (i don't have it anymore).

Get wheel alignment checked straight away.


Other info:
The steering rack i got as a replacement had a different motor and gearbox on it, however where the gearbox connected on to the steering rack itself, it was the same connection as the original so i was able to use original motor and box and not get anything recoded into ECU.

I used a blowtorch to get a lot of the bolts off. Its an E16 socket i think. I tried using a snug fitting hex socket and it just destroyed the head (buy the proper one).

something was slightly off when i put mine back together leaving the steering wheel pointing away from centre. You can adjust it easily on the spline shaft and the indicator cancelers still work perfectly.
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My Name: C3CAR

Guru
Posts: 2706
Joined: Wed May 04, 2011 10:01 am
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2002 (02)
Engine Size: 1.4 (16v)
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 140000
Trim Level: Exclusive
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: DV4 16-valve diesel (90 PS)
Has thanked: 186 times
Been thanked: 99 times

Post

iain12321 wrote:Someone PM'd me about how i replaced it so i thought i would share incase anyone else is interested.

I went by the haynes manual and it worked ok.

Set steering wheel straight ahead.
jack up front of car as high as you can get it. Use axle stands (but not on subframe).

Disconnect battery, remove air-box, to get into fuse box to remove cabling for the steering rack(three plugs from memory).
Disconnect bolts at bottom of steering column(from inside the footwell).
take apart exhaust at flexi joint(there are bolts with springs on them) As front subframe needs dropped a good few inches. Plug both ends to make sure nothing gets inside exhaust.

wheels off, separate steering rack ball joints from the hubs.

loosen the bolts securing the steering rack. there is only two or three.
support engine/frame with jack(i don't remember exactly), loosen the bolts securing the subframe(i took them all the way out then put them back in a few threads.) lower engine so it rests on the bolts.

Make sure it is stable and support engine/frame if necessary. Steering rack comes out through the passenger wheel well.


Reassembly is basically the reverse.
I reconnected the steering wheel column before i fully did up subframe.
I ran a tap down the threaded holes as some were a bit corroded and I used new bolts for subframe and steering rack. Torqued everything up as per the book (i don't have it anymore).

Get wheel alignment checked straight away.


Other info:
The steering rack i got as a replacement had a different motor and gearbox on it, however where the gearbox connected on to the steering rack itself, it was the same connection as the original so i was able to use original motor and box and not get anything recoded into ECU.

I used a blowtorch to get a lot of the bolts off. Its an E16 socket i think. I tried using a snug fitting hex socket and it just destroyed the head (buy the proper one).

something was slightly off when i put mine back together leaving the steering wheel pointing away from centre. You can adjust it easily on the spline shaft and the indicator cancelers still work perfectly.
That is great news. Well done. Thanks for the info. I think it should have a place in the tips section with all that detail.

:D
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