Picasso Passenger window not operating
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One question per topic.
No Engine questions
Think: Manual Gearbox, Seats, Bodywork, Lighting, Interior, A/C, Heater, Wheels, Steering, Brakes, Tyres and Suspension
One question per topic.
No Engine questions
Think: Manual Gearbox, Seats, Bodywork, Lighting, Interior, A/C, Heater, Wheels, Steering, Brakes, Tyres and Suspension
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun May 01, 2022 9:14 am
- Model: C3 Picasso
- Year: 2010 (10)
- Engine Size: 1.6 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Hi I'm new here have a problem with my passenger window doesn't do anything at all don't think there's power going to switch but checked all fuses anyone any idea or a wiring diagram for windows so I can put multimeter on to test for power
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- Posts: 1199
- Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
- Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
- Year: 2003 (53)
- Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
- Fuel Type: Petrol
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Automatic PRND
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD
- Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
- Location: Brisbane, Australia.
- Has thanked: 59 times
- Been thanked: 351 times
Sorry I don't have a circuit diagram for a Picasso.
Typically all the electronics are in the window motor. If the LED in the switch lights up, then you have "switch" power from the BSI. I do not know what voltage is coming from the BSI to the switches, it might not be 12V. There is a separate power for the window motor in the door. But the left and right door motors share power. So if one works it's not a fuse problem.
I don't have a pin out for the central console in the drivers door so I cant tell you what to try there. If the switches have their own plugs you can try swapping the connectors around and see what happens.
If you can gain access to the door motor it should have 4 wires. Power, ground and "up" and "down". IF the windows are automatic, each of the up and down pins has 3 logic states, switch power, open circuit, switch power, as you run the switch through it's 3 positions(off,manual, auto). Remember, I'm not sure that the switches run on 12V. If they are not automatic, then they will only have 2 states, power or open circuit.
With the switch "off" (not up or down) you should get switch voltage at both the up and down pins. When you pull or push the switch you will get changes in the logic. It seems that the contact that goes open circuit determines whether the window goes up or down.
Typically all the electronics are in the window motor. If the LED in the switch lights up, then you have "switch" power from the BSI. I do not know what voltage is coming from the BSI to the switches, it might not be 12V. There is a separate power for the window motor in the door. But the left and right door motors share power. So if one works it's not a fuse problem.
I don't have a pin out for the central console in the drivers door so I cant tell you what to try there. If the switches have their own plugs you can try swapping the connectors around and see what happens.
If you can gain access to the door motor it should have 4 wires. Power, ground and "up" and "down". IF the windows are automatic, each of the up and down pins has 3 logic states, switch power, open circuit, switch power, as you run the switch through it's 3 positions(off,manual, auto). Remember, I'm not sure that the switches run on 12V. If they are not automatic, then they will only have 2 states, power or open circuit.
With the switch "off" (not up or down) you should get switch voltage at both the up and down pins. When you pull or push the switch you will get changes in the logic. It seems that the contact that goes open circuit determines whether the window goes up or down.
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- Posts: 2
- Joined: Sun May 01, 2022 9:14 am
- Model: C3 Picasso
- Year: 2010 (10)
- Engine Size: 1.6 (16v)
- Fuel Type: Diesel
- Mileage: 80000
- Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
- DPF: No
- LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Many thanks for the reply but my window switches don't illuminate so can't really tell if have power to switch can't find diagram on actual switch but on reading up found that most 6pin switches have 12 v and ground on the centre pins and can't get power there don't want to mess around testing every wire just incase I short something
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