Front Indicator Fault

Questions not related to the fuel type, like Manual Gearbox, Body Work, Lights, Interior trim and Seats, Steering, Brakes, Beeping, Wheels and Tyres to be asked in this topic only.

Audio has its own section - see further down the page.

Please provide as much information as you think may be relevant like recent work on the car and you can attach photographs directly to your topic using the form below the text box.
Forum rules
One question per topic.
No Engine questions
Think: Manual Gearbox, Seats, Bodywork, Lighting, Interior, A/C, Heater, Wheels, Steering, Brakes, Tyres and Suspension
My Name: C3Noob

Experienced Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 7:49 pm
Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
Year: 2006 (06)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 120000
Trim Level: LX
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 6 times

Post

Hi guys, Back again with yet another problem.

Yesterday the car started giving Indicator Fault warning so i went and bought 2 bulbs (just incase).
changed the bulb but have the same issue.

i tested all 3 bulbs and they are all working so now figuring its the wiring thats the issue as i dont suspect a fuse when all the other indicators work, front driver side, both rear and both side repeaters all work fine as indicators and as hazard lights.

my problem now is where to look for a wiring fault, take the headlight housing out and go where?
anyone had this and can give a hint to where the problem might be to save me some time searching the wires back
thanks for any help guys
My Name: routemaster1

C3 Master
Posts: 216
Joined: Fri Mar 08, 2019 4:32 pm
Model: C3 2017-on. The new C3
Year: 2019 (19)
Engine Size: 1.2
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 300
Trim Level: Flair
Gearbox: Manual 6 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Engine name: EB2DT-EB2ADT PureTech 3-Cylinder (110 PS)
Been thanked: 63 times

Post

Before you start looking at wiring, I suggest you test the voltage at the bulb holder. There have been incidences of poor contact in the holder. It may just need a clean.
My Name: C3Noob

Experienced Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 7:49 pm
Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
Year: 2006 (06)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 120000
Trim Level: LX
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 6 times

Post

Thanks for the reply, I have got a multimeter but still unsure on how to use it properly tbh,
can you put it into easy terms to what i need to do to test the voltage with this.
i get the remove the bulb holder + remove the bulb from there what setting for the multimeter and which wires go where?
do i check the voltage and continuity also, if so again how
thanks
User avatar
My Name: Ozvtr

Moderator
Posts: 942
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2003 (53)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: Other
Gearbox: Automatic PRND
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD
Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
Location: Brisbane, Australia.
Has thanked: 36 times
Been thanked: 252 times

Post

Check for corrosion on the bulb holder. Particularly the center contact(s).
I would check and clean EVERY lamp and holder for corrosion. It's a pain, but if you have corrosion on one terminal...
The lamp checker pulses 5Volts to the lamp and checks the current consumption, and it checks the lamps ALL THE TIME. This is NOT enough voltage to illuminate the lamp. If the consumption is not within spec (and the specs are VERY tight) then it throws up an error. HOWEVER if the car wants the lamp on, it applies 12V. Its possible, with even light corrosion on the terminals, to illuminate the lamp with 12V but fail the 5V test!
My Name: C3Noob

Experienced Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 7:49 pm
Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
Year: 2006 (06)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 120000
Trim Level: LX
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 6 times

Post

Thanks for the reply m8, no there is no corrosion at all in the holder, it actually looks pretty new tbh.
that was the first thing i checked for, then i checked that the bottom contact was actually contacting the bulb which it is also.

the headlight housing was recently changed from the one that looked like it was burnt inside this is whats leading me to think its a fault with the wires but as mentioned before i will check for voltage and continuity before ripping it out if someone is able to guide me on how to
thanks
User avatar
My Name: Ozvtr

Moderator
Posts: 942
Joined: Wed Jul 10, 2019 3:31 am
Model: C3 2002-2005, Original shape model
Year: 2003 (53)
Engine Size: 1.4 (8v)
Fuel Type: Petrol
Mileage: 80000
Trim Level: Other
Gearbox: Automatic PRND
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD
Engine name: TU3 (75 PS)
Location: Brisbane, Australia.
Has thanked: 36 times
Been thanked: 252 times

Post

You have said you "checked the bulbs" but you didn't clarify what that means. Observed them in the lamp holders or tested them with a multimeter?
If the lamps actually illuminate, in their respective housings, then there is nothing wrong with the wiring.
You keep going on about the headlamp housing. Does the front indicator lamp illuminate or not? You have not said.
Is the electrical connector for the headlamp assembly seated correctly and corrosion free?
It is unlikely that there is a problem with the actual wiring unless it has been crushed or cut by something and that is highly unlikely. Most likely is corrosion in a connector. Either at the engine bay fuse box (BSM) or at the headlamp assembly.
Voltage and continuity test may be misleading without a load on the circuit. So try to eliminate other things first.
Ok, if the front indicator does not illuminate, then disconnect the headlamp electrical connector. Set your multimeter to DC volts. If the multi meter doesn't auto range, set it to the next highest setting above 12 Volts, perhaps 20 Volts. Place the probes in the volts/ohms and common sockets. Turn the indicators on. Place the negative (common) probe on a naked metal part of the chassis or engine. Place the other probe on the positive terminal if the battery, make sure you get a reading to test your ground probe connection. Probe each of the metal "teeth" of the headlamp electrical socket IN THE WIRING LOOM with the positive (Volts/Ohms) probe. You should get a pulsing voltage from one of the contacts. If so, the problem is most likely in the lamp assembly. If not, the problem is the BSM or between the BSM and the connector. HOWEVER, as I said, corrosion on the contacts may give you a voltage reading on the meter but not work under load!
But try what I said and see how you go.
My Name: C3Noob

Experienced Member
Posts: 41
Joined: Thu Feb 18, 2021 7:49 pm
Model: C3 2006-2009, Facelift model
Year: 2006 (06)
Engine Size: 1.4
Fuel Type: Diesel
Mileage: 120000
Trim Level: LX
Gearbox: Manual 5 speed
DPF: No
LHD or RHD: RHD (UK)
Has thanked: 17 times
Been thanked: 6 times

Post

Cheers for the replies, it seems to have fixed itself.
got in the car yesterday morning and it was working so leaving it be for now
guessing its a loose wire somewhere so im not going to mess with it while its working again
thanks again
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post