change anit-roll bar bushes

Hi, I need to replace at least one for the MOT, (offside), but obviously it makes sense to replace both.

Is there an easy way of doing this, or any pitfalls to avoid?
I don't want to have to lower the sub-frame unless I absolutely have to as this looks like a right pain.

On another (C3) forum it mentions an easier way of doing the nearside one but it is obviously the other one which I am principally worried about.
Cheers and thanks in advance.

Stanleysteamer wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 2:14 pm Hi, I need to replace at least one for the MOT, (offside), but obviously it makes sense to replace both.

Is there an easy way of doing this, or any pitfalls to avoid?
I don't want to have to lower the sub-frame unless I absolutely have to as this looks like a right pain.

On another (C3) forum it mentions an easier way of doing the nearside one but it is obviously the other one which I am principally worried about.
Cheers and thanks in advance.

Hello Stanleysteamer

It isn't easy to change the anit-roll bar bushes on the Pluriel/C3.

Having access to a vehicle lift saves a lot of time as the access is so poor.

This is the roll-bar disconnected from the drop link and the driveshaft removed for a better picture


more pictures here
questions-about-a-citroen-c3-not-relate ... t1689.html

The bushes are split (I.E a 'c' shape) and you don't need to remove the roll bar or links to remove the bushes.
There is only one bolt per mount/clamp to remove.
Make sure both wheels are "off the ground" and/or removed, otherwise the roll bar will twist and cause problems.

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Sun Nov 10, 2019 10:37 pm The bushes are split (I.E a 'c' shape) and you don't need to remove the roll bar or links to remove the bushes.
There is only one bolt per mount/clamp to remove.
Make sure both wheels are "off the ground" and/or removed, otherwise the roll bar will twist and cause problems.

Thanks to yourself and other poster. I have researched this a bit and have seen a diagram of both the part(s) and their location. I understand that it is possible, just, to do the job on the nearside bush without lowering the subframe, but it is the offside one that will probably need changing as it has been an advisory for the past 2 MOTs.

If it CAN be done without removing the subframe, or "partially lowering " it, as stated in the Haynes manual for the C3, then I am prepared to do it as it really shouldn't be too difficult, but if the subframe does have to come off then I think I am going to have to pay a garage as I am working on a gravel drive in front of my house, I do not have access to a two or four post lift although I do have various powerful jacks and axle stands as I more commonly work on my Land Rover Discoveries, but then you can crawl under them to do stuff like this!

So ,in your opinion, can the offside one be done without lowering the subframe, do you know?

Cheers Stan

First up I must admit I have not replaced the roll bar bushes and my car has the 1.4i engine and the AL4 auto gearbox. However I cant see any problems removing the bushes.
There seems to be plenty of room to remove the bolt holding down the bushing retaining clamp. Look at the yellow circle in the pic, that's the head of the bolt for the clamp.
There are only two problems I can see. 1) the bolts might be seized, so spray lots of penetrating oil. It also looks like the bolts will need to be completely withdrawn so the clamp can swing back. 2) you will probably need to pop the tie-rod end (track rod end) from the hub, so you can move the tie-rod back a bit to swing the bushing clamp off the retaining tang. It looks like it might push into the steering rack boot before it disengages but I'm not sure. You could see if you can remove the clamp before you remove the tie-rod end.
Yes, the Haynes manual says to lower the subframe but I don't see why, unless there is some sort of clearance problem with the other engine and gearbox combinations.
If you cant get both wheels off the ground at the same time, detach one end of one roll bar link while the car is still on the ground. If you can get both wheels off the ground at the same time don't worry about touching the links at all.

Long story short, the job is done but I didn't do it.

First of all I changed the nearside anti-roll bar strut, which was dead easy, but in the process I hit my hand. Either the ratchet suddenly gave up, as it is a bit iffy, or the nut suddenly came loose, or the ordinary length socket came off as the bolt on the swivel is quite long.
Whatever happened, my hand, and to be more precise my thumb, ended up hitting either the disc or some other part of the front suspension and as it was holding the ratchet, momentarily my thumb was caught between two hard objects and I chipped a bit off the bone at the middle joint.

Didn't realise it at the time, so I finished the job and it was only a couple of hours later that I realised it was more than just a knock, confirmed buy the X-ray.

So that, combined with where I have to work pushed me to ask my local tyre place if they would do it and to my surprise not only did they say yes but they offered to do it for £60 including the parts. so I snapped their hand off.

When I picked it up they said it took them about an hour as it was well fiddly even with a ramp and air tools, so I am glad I didn't try to do it.

So I am very sorry I cannot report back on how I did it, together with pictures, but there you go.

Doesn't change my gratitude for your thoughts and advice and next time, if I live that long(!), I'll do it myself!

Cheers!
Stan