all the electrics have gone nuts.. windows, indicators and display have gone now

unplugging the abs module:

it's been recommended that I don't disconnect the abs unless the battery is disconnected and not reconnect until the module is completely fitted..

I assumed it might mess with the program?..
or it this just to reduce spiking?



update:
I have been having a dig around and looks like the garage haven't even taken the plug off..

I'M FINDING SOME RESISTANCE between the abs connector and the bsi1 connector.

my father believes there could be a resistor within the abs connector..

would anyone know if this was the case?

I thought I was simply testing a wire..

Ibog wrote: ↑Tue Mar 21, 2023 4:49 pm unplugging the abs module:

it's been recommended that I don't disconnect the abs unless the battery is disconnected and not reconnect until the module is completely fitted..

You would do the same for any ECU component. Disconnect the battery before unplugging things make it less likely to do any damage to the electrical circuits.

soo.. buried in schematics, seems they're all different, the resistance is apparently because the power steering splices onto the same two wires


I'm not sure how to test a spliced connection..

If three or two wires are spliced together, there should not be any resistance at the join.

When I find a HR - High Resistance , that is the time for a visual inspection of the physical join. Look for a break or contamination, depending on how its joined.

PSA (Citroen) use "Raychem" splices (from a company called Raychem). Raychem splices are a crimp type that have an integral, amber, hermetically sealing, potting compound to seal the joint from corrosion.

The joint is typically then contained in the wiring loom and difficult to find and gain access to. The crimped joint is very reliable but occasionally some of the wires are "bent back" on themselves in the loom (bad engineering) and it's possible the wire might break. Although that would be very rare.

The spliced joint will have very little resistance across it.

well I've finally taken the abs module off after a long search for skinny torx..

it was full of water.. it's a right state inside..
chips blown and some kind of relay or capacitor or something's blown up..

it had a sticker on from the previous repairer who were quite helpful.. (BBA reman ltd)
seems it had lasted a good long time (mine 185*** and they're in the 500***s now)

informed me apparently 9/10 times if the chip's blown it's not repairable..
(otherwise repairs cost around £185)
to read info and replace would be around £295
sadly the lifetime warranty only applies to the customer so I'm not eligible for that..

but he then confirmed as long as someone can code it then a cheap replacement would be fine.. nice guy

here's a couple of pics of the state of it in case anyone's interested..

you can see the chip has blown it's bubbled up.. and it looks like water was sitting in the bottom part of the connector end.

Sounds like BBA Reman either didn't seal it up properly to someone got to it and unsealed it after BBA reman fixed it the first time.


A replacement doesn't need coding, just get another one... try eBay

think the sealant had deteriorated over time it was well sealed, I hadn't even noticed it had been opened but for it was starting to roll off..

yes, on the hunt for the replacement.. they've all disappeared now I've opened it!! one will come up.

thanks again for all ur help

ok, couple questions..

can I use a pug 207 one?

and do I have to match engine size?

the weight of the 207 seems close enough.. but coding etc?

I think that electricaly it would be compatable. I.E. the pin connections would match up.
The only BIG difference would be if the ABS ECU came from a vehicle with ESP. I don't think it would be easy to disable the extra functions in LEXIA. So steer clear of those. But vehicles with ESP are fairly rare.
Other options might be a 307 or a C2.

The only thing that's "coded in" is the diameter of the tyre/rim to derive the car speed.

The recommendation is always going to be; "match up the numbers exactly"! But to be frank I don't think that there are too many experts on this subject. So you are going to have to try your "best guess".

If it was me, I would stick to parts from the sub-compact cars made by PSA (Peugeot/Citroen) within 1 or 2 years of the manufacture of my car. Models that share other similar parts and based more or less on the same platform (like the 207 and the 307). But that's just ME!