2014 Torque for Driveshaft hub nut

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I have to change a front wheel bearing on my 2014 C3 1.0 vtr in the next couple of weeks so can anyone help me please with the correct torque for tightening the central driveshaft hub nut?

Thanks.
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shoestring wrote: ↑Sun Sep 27, 2020 6:52 pm I have to change a front wheel bearing on my 2014 C3 1.0 vtr in the next couple of weeks so can anyone help me please with the correct torque for tightening the central driveshaft hub nut?

Thanks.
Hi

The A51 C3 is listed as having a 30mm nut or a 35mm nut on the hub.

For the 30mm hub nut the torque setting is 24.5 daNm

For the 35mm hub nut the torque setting is 32.5 daNm


1 daNm is equal to 10 newton meter

so 25.4 daNm = 245nm.

It is something Citroen do in their technical documentation :roll:
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shoestring

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Thanks for that Arfur...appreciated!
Blimey!...245Nm or 325NM is very tight!... that is 180lbs ft or 240lbs/ft in my language.
I just hope I have the smaller nut because my Torque wrench only goes up to 200lbs/ft!

Thanks again..
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shoestring wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:51 pm Thanks for that Arfur...appreciated!
Blimey!...245Nm or 325NM is very tight!... that is 180lbs ft or 240lbs/ft in my language.
I just hope I have the smaller nut because my Torque wrench only goes up to 200lbs/ft!

Thanks again..
I would guess that you have the smaller of the two, because I couldn't see why the 1.1 engine would need a bigger drive shaft than the bigger engines?
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If they are anything like the original C3 I just use a 3ft breaker bar & tighten them up as tight as I can without risking the bar breaking!
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zebedee2001 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 6:40 pm If they are anything like the original C3 I just use a 3ft breaker bar & tighten them up as tight as I can without risking the bar breaking!
Um...the front wheel bearing might look like one bearing but its two conical bearings manufactured back-to-back. They are manufactured to have a particular "pre-load" on them to take the weight of the car and power from the drive line. The hub nut squeezes the bearings together to obtain that pre-load. Not torquing up the retaining nut correctly may result in reduced lifespan of the bearing(s).
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Um...the front wheel bearing might look like one bearing but its two conical bearings manufactured back-to-back. They are manufactured to have a particular "pre-load" on them to take the weight of the car and power from the drive line. The hub nut squeezes the bearings together to obtain that pre-load. Not torquing up the retaining nut correctly may result in reduced lifespan of the bearing(s).
My cars done 118,000 miles. I think the first time I took a driveshaft out was at 60,000 miles. I must have a calibrated wrist!
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zebedee2001 wrote: ↑Thu Oct 01, 2020 8:29 pm My cars done 118,000 miles. I think the first time I took a driveshaft out was at 60,000 miles. I must have a calibrated wrist!
That's fair enough but not everyone has your 'skill'. I know old school mechanics that hardly ever use a torque wrench, they've got the feel and can even take wear and tear into account to 'adjust' their 'settings'.

I'm not that good and therefore I apply 'never exchange luck for skill' principal. In my torque wrench I trust ;)
If at first you don't succeed, destroy all the evidence and pretend you never tried :lol:
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