Selected gears not appearing on display

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:20 pm
The reverse light switch is a VERY simple circuit. No multiplexing, ECU's or jiggery-pokery. This tells me that the fault is very simple too. The ECU's are very cunning buggers. They can tell short circuits and open circuits and tell when contacts should make and when they should break (by using the opening and closing of the other contacts). HOWEVER they only log the fault in the background and you may need a LEXIA to read them. Apparently those indicator LED's are SOOO expensive, that the engineers decided to do the owner a favor and only tell them when some stuff goes wrong. After all ignorance is bliss! And if they do tell you something has gone wrong...the indication is so cryptic as to make it next to useless!!! Sorry, rant over.

I know I know...why not keep it simple right?
At the end of the day, they need ways to keep you using their services ($$$) when something isn't right...

I've always disliked automatic cars for far too many reasons...but... missus can only drive auto so... here we are

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:20 pm I still wouldn't discount a failure of the selector switch just yet.
Did you check the resistance of the 'reverse' contacts in the selector switch?

Yeah it's not excluded for now... but I'll wait for LEXIA to arrive and check before trying to get it replaced in case.

No...I did not unfortunately...just visually checked and cleaned it.... didn't know exactly which one it was on the PCB honestly and could not find any diagram of it...

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Wed Jan 05, 2022 9:20 pm Yes. The PRNDM S and * just light up. They don't indicate anything.

thought so...thanks for confirming

tommy_xx84 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 05, 2022 10:42 pm
No...I did not unfortunately...just visually checked and cleaned it.... didn't know exactly which one it was on the PCB honestly and could not find any diagram of it...

Yours is the same as the circuit that I posted here. It has not changed, well the multifunction switch has not changed. The yellow area represents the multifunction switch.
The reverse contacts are connected to A1 and A2 of the plug.
I am not sure but I believe the microswitch inside the switch housing is the reverse lamp switch. Have another look at the youtube video.
When I said its simple I meant that the reversing lamps were switched by the multi function switch DIRECTLY through the BSI. The BSI monitors the logic of the reversing light BUT it does not drive them. I believe the lamp current is switched by that microswitch in the multifunction switch. That means the contacts of that microswitch are probably burnt out, like they show you in the video.
Continuity checks from A1 to A2 will quickly tell you.
The rest of the PCB contacts in the multifunction switch are just low current logic contacts.
The only other set of contacts that might handle a bit of current is the Park/Neutral switch, connected to the starter lock-out relay. But this is only driving the relay coil and I cant see that as much of a load.
The brake lamp switch is the same. The bulk of the brake lamp current goes through the switch. There are actually 2 sets of contacts in that switch but suffice to say with all the relays and transistors in the world, PSA still chooses a mechanical switch to control high current!

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:06 am Yours is the same as the circuit that I posted here. It has not changed, well the multifunction switch has not changed.
index.129.gif
The yellow area represents the multifunction switch.
The reverse contacts are connected to A1 and A2 of the plug.
I am not sure but I believe the microswitch inside the switch housing is the reverse lamp switch. Have another look at the youtube video.
When I said its simple I meant that the reversing lamps were switched by the multi function switch DIRECTLY through the BSI. The BSI monitors the logic of the reversing light BUT it does not drive them. I believe the lamp current is switched by that microswitch in the multifunction switch. That means the contacts of that microswitch are probably burnt out, like they show you in the video.
Continuity checks from A1 to A2 will quickly tell you.

I opened up the microswitch as well as i assumed that might have been the reverse switch... mint conditions...and it's the only one i tested...(directly on the switch side...not on plug side as i wasn't sure of the pin layout)

I might check A1 to A2 if nothing comes up in Lexia (when it'll eventually arrive)...but for now I'll leave it... working on too many assumptions at the moment...

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Thu Jan 06, 2022 1:06 am The rest of the PCB contacts in the multifunction switch are just low current logic contacts.
The only other set of contacts that might handle a bit of current is the Park/Neutral switch, connected to the starter lock-out relay. But this is only driving the relay coil and I cant see that as much of a load.
The brake lamp switch is the same. The bulk of the brake lamp current goes through the switch. There are actually 2 sets of contacts in that switch but suffice to say with all the relays and transistors in the world, PSA still chooses a mechanical switch to control high current!

that's right...usually high current is controlled by mechanical switches...but because the microswitch is in mint conditions, I'm thinking that the BSI isn't allowing power through maybe because of a misconfiguration OR the low voltage contacts playing up OR a bad earth somewhere that is messing up with some low current feed to the BSI module...

So... Lexia... then let's see... car's drivable with no issues so far...

That circuit diagram is difficult to read. But studying the video I think I have an idea how the multi function switch works.
We have already discussed the microswitch.
On the PCB there are 2 sets of linked contacts. One has 2 sets of contacts and a common. The other has 4 sets of contacts and a common.
The 2 sets of linked contacts contain the park/neutral switch, and we know that works.
The set with 4 contacts are on pins A7 A10 A11 A12. A7 is the common contact. 1 set of contacts (labled S1) is not used.
So there should be contact between A7 and the other 3 as you move the selector around.
A8 and A3 appear to be connected together. "Please excuse the crudity of this model. I didn't have time to build it to scale or paint it." Doc Brown BTTF.

oh man... that is great and soo much appreciated...
i was going to try to figure it out myself if and when i had to pull it out again...but... you beat me

Lexia apparently landed in Perth yesterday ( after i called the day before for an update given that it left the UK on the 15th... what a coincidence that it landed / been processed right the next day )

So I'll wait for it to get here, do a scan and take it from there...

Little update....

it seems like that Lexia might be delivered in the coming days (hopefully and finally ahaha)

Very quick question in the meantime....
Since i remove the switch to check it, i started hearing a "rattling noise" while driving when it's about to switch gear and only during the first 500ish meters from a cold start... then it disappears....

Really unsure if i missed that before or if it only started after i removed the switch at this stage...but...in case it was the latter...could be the switch not being perfectly aligned cause such thing?

I really don't recall it when we test drived the car during the purchase (and i did that with radio/ac off on purpose to listen to strange noises and didn't pick it up then)...

Sounds like an oil supply issue, but I couldn't tell you which oil or what it's supplying.

Could be gearbox or could be engine. Cold start sounds like engine.

Ozvtr wrote: ↑Tue Jan 18, 2022 8:46 am Sounds like an oil supply issue, but I couldn't tell you which oil or what it's supplying.

Could be gearbox or could be engine. Cold start sounds like engine.

mmm... interesting you mention oil supply...for the simple reason that it is leaking a bit of oil (haven't figured out from where yet though)...
Can you elaborate a bit more around why oil supply could cause that rattling?

Received Lexia today btw... (yayyy)...
Spawn up Virtual Machine with Windows 7 32bits...Half way through the installation process at the moment...

Mate... Got lexia installed and working...had a veey quick look but it seems like lots of modules aren't being recognised...
it came up with a warning saying like unexpected BSI initialization and faulty oil gauge...

Not really used with how Lexia works for obvious reasons (newbie with it) so...i was wondering if you might be keen for a catchup maybe and go through it together on a weekend... beers on me

Ok... played a little bit with Lexia this morning...

Not sure if it's right or not, but upon selection of the correct model, when it's listing modules, the majority comes up as "ECU not recognized".
What does that mean? Is that an issue or it's normal?
Lexia is updated up to version 7.83

Despite above though, i can dive into the modules and do readings etc.

Found a few errors

BSI: F5FF i believe it's simply because of when I disconnected the battery
F40A oil gauge fault might probably simply need replacement (could maybe be linked to that rattling noise i mentioned in previous posts on cold starts AND maybe the little oil leak (which i haven't looked into it and haven't found the source yet)

tried to erase them.
only F40A remained so I'll order one.

TRANSMISSION: P1799 and P1763
They seems to be both related to the Multi-function switch that i already removed and inspected. Despite it seemed ok, it appears to be faulty.
P1799 seems to relate to the actual switch apparently being somewhat faulty.
P1763 seems like it's related to the "Governor Pressure Sensor" with cause "Voltage Too High"

tried to erase them.
Both disappeared for now.
Haven't taken the car for a drive, but I suspect they'll eventually comeback (I'll do that tonight)

DISPLAY:
did a test of the display and everything was lit up...so the display is definitely not the issue



Aside from above, i have to say though that i was not able to find any screen that allowed me to change settings or configurations...
Might be just me not looking in the right place...so i was wondering if anyone has a sample of settings that i could possibly change and outline how i can get there to see if Lexia (or modules) is actually fully functional