Picasso newbie buying, any common faults?

Hi all. Going to be buying a Picasso 1.6 diesel soon. Probably around a 2010 due to finances. Anything in particular to look out for? Have several earmarked to look at.
Thanks Don

redgpx wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 12:47 pm Hi all. Going to be buying a Picasso 1.6 diesel soon. Probably around a 2010 due to finances. Anything in particular to look out for? Have several earmarked to look at.
Thanks Don

Hi

2010 puts it age at over 10 years so a full service history would be beneficial.

Cam belt would be on the list for ten years.

But also bushes and exhaust should be checked for age related wear.

Are you getting a DPF/FAP version? As they are not so good for only shopping/school run type of use.

Is there a dual mass flywheel for the clutch and depending on its mileage, had the clutch ever been changed?

Thanks for reply. Never owned a car with dpf how do I check if it has one? Would prefer to not have one. Thanks

Sorry for ignorance but have 05 sorento and mitsubishi fto I use as a daily both do 26mpg hence buying Picasso. Done a Google and it appears all post 2009 will have dpf. My daily run is to my unit which is 6 miles about 2 of these are 40 mph plus. Do you think this is enough to work the dpf? Thanks

There is a fluid that is injected into the system to bring the DPF up to regeneration temperature for cars that only do the short and slow (non motorway) speeds.

The DPF fluid needs to be refilled when it runs low, your prospective car many need the DPF fluid refilling sooner or later, depending on how the car has previously been used, not just how you intend to use it.

Getting a history of the work done or not done will help you understand the potential extra costs for an older vehicle and hence negotiate a more realistic price.

Arfur Dent wrote: ↑Sun Nov 28, 2021 5:57 pm There is a fluid that is injected into the system to bring the DPF up to regeneration temperature for cars that only do the short and slow (non motorway) speeds.

The DPF fluid needs to be refilled when it runs low, your prospective car many need the DPF fluid refilling sooner or later, depending on how the car has previously been used, not just how you intend to use it.

Getting a history of the work done or not done will help you understand the potential extra costs for an older vehicle and hence negotiate a more realistic price.

The above info is a little misleading. The ELOYS pum is used to pump the fluid into the fuel tank. The pump is activated when the car is refuelled, and when the fuel is burnt in the engine the catalyst is deposited in the dpf. This is completely unrelated to how the car is driven. To increase the expected life of the contents of the pouch, when refuelling it is quite important not to top up 'little and often'. It is better to run down to below 1/4 full, then to fill. Obviously, the harded the car is driven the quicker the EOLYS in the fuel will be transferred to the catalyst.

The way the car is driven will affect the rate that the dpf will block. Virtually all diesel cars will produce soot, particularly if the throttle is pressed had. When driving quickly the dpf becomes hot and the soot is burnt off and the dpf remains quite clear, The issues arise when the car is driven short distanes around town when the dpf doesn't get hot enough to burn the soot off, even with the help of the EOLYS fluid. Thuis is why a higher speed drive will aid to keep the dpf clear, but sometimes this isn't enouggh and the car will start a regeneration, where extra fuel is injected into the engine and the car switches on extra electical load to increase the dpf temperature. If there is no remaining ELOYS fluid the car system will not allow a regeneration and the dpf can completely block. This could require physical cleaning. If there is a warning, the EOLYS fluid will need refilling/replacing and the system updated by Lexia/diagbox before the new fluid will inject into the fuel.